Audi A4 Front Crankshaft Seal Replacement at your home or office.

Our mobile mechanics offer services 7 days a week. Upfront and transparent pricing.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(424)

Included for free with this service

Online Booking

Mechanic comes to you

12-month / 12k-mile warranty

Free 50 point safety inspection

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to your home or office 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Customer Ratings

(424)

Front Crankshaft Seal Replacement Service

How much does a Front Crankshaft Seal Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a Audi A4 Front Crankshaft Seal Replacement is $507 with $17 for parts and $490 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2001 Audi A4L4-1.8L TurboService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$1834.28Shop/Dealer Price$2081.93 - $2732.72
1996 Audi A4V6-2.8LService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$1875.99Shop/Dealer Price$2171.88 - $3022.03
2006 Audi A4L4-2.0L TurboService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$1988.14Shop/Dealer Price$2342.22 - $3373.00
2004 Audi A4V6-3.0LService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$2199.37Shop/Dealer Price$2529.79 - $3472.76
2018 Audi A4L4-2.0L TurboService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$734.67Shop/Dealer Price$759.14 - $796.57
2004 Audi A4L4-1.8L TurboService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$1775.72Shop/Dealer Price$2005.14 - $2642.28
2002 Audi A4V6-3.0LService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$2199.37Shop/Dealer Price$2529.97 - $3473.08
2013 Audi A4L4-2.0L TurboService typeFront Crankshaft Seal ReplacementEstimate$775.87Shop/Dealer Price$810.26 - $878.30
Show example Audi A4 Front Crankshaft Seal Replacement prices

What is the Front Crankshaft Seal all about?

A number of mechanisms must work together to make your vehicle move forward. One of the most important is the crankshaft, which converts rotary into linear motion; i.e., it transforms the force created by the engine's pistons moving up and down into a force that moves in a circular motion that causes a car’s wheel to turn. Enclosed in what’s called a crankcase—the largest cavity in the engine block, just below the cylinders—the crankshaft must be completely lubricated, essentially submerged in oil, to spin nearly friction-free and do its job properly.

Consequently, there are seals located at either end of the crankshaft that allow it to spin freely and keep engine oil from escaping the engine block, as well as prevent contaminants and other debris from entering and causing damage to the mechanism. Since there are two ends of the crankshaft, there are two types of seals: the front crankshaft seal and the rear crankshaft seal, also known as the front main and rear main seals.

Keep in mind:

  • Loss of oil will eventually cause serious internal engine damage.
  • Inspect the sealing surface of the crankshaft or the crankshaft pulley (depending on the engine design) for damage when replacing the crankshaft seal.
  • Oil degrades rubber components.

How it's done:

  • The vehicle is raised and supported on jack stands
  • The crankshaft damper and timing belt is removed
  • The crankshaft seal is removed and a new one installed
  • The timing belt and cover along with crankshaft damper is reinstalled
  • The engine accessory belts are installed and the vehicle is lowered off of the jack stands

Our recommendation:

One of the most important parts of your car, crankshaft seals are typically made from a durable material, such as a synthetic rubber or silicone, designed to handle the extreme pressure and temperatures as well as the caustic chemicals in your engine oil. Because they are exposed to such abuse, main seals are subject to a lot of wear and tear. And whether you are talking a front or rear main seal, replacement is the only cure when one malfunctions.

The good news is that the seals are relatively inexpensive components. The bad news is that neither is easy to replace.

Front seal: The front seal is located behind the main pulley that drives all the belts, which is, of course, always spinning. The main pulley throws any leaking oil out in a big circle. It can get thrown up on the alternator, steering pump, belts, in short anything attached to the front of the engine and cause a real mess and eventually some serious damage. Consequently, it has to be removed along with many of the components attached to the front of the block to replace the front main seal.

Rear seal: The rear crankshaft seal is placed along with the transmission; therefore, the process of replacing it requires the removal of transmission, as well as the clutch and flywheel assembly. This is a very involved job.

What common symptoms indicate you may need to replace the Front Crankshaft Seal?

  • Oil leaking from the front crank pulley.
  • Oil dripping from the bottom of the clutch housing, where the block and transmission meet.
  • Clutch slip caused by oil spraying on the clutch.

How important is this service?

Letting either crankshaft seal continue to leak can be detrimental to your vehicle’s continued operation. Besides the maladies caused by driving around with little to no oil flowing in the engine, the faulty seal will be spread oil through the engine bay and undercarriage of your car as you drive, a mess that is difficult to clean up and can be a fire hazard. Replacing is better addressed sooner than later.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Audi mechanics

Real customer reviews from Audi owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(424)

Rating Summary
390
15
2
2
15
390
15
2
2
15

Eduardo

20 years of experience
570 reviews
Eduardo
20 years of experience
Audi A4 L4-2.0L Turbo - Check Engine Light is on - Houston, Texas
Eduardo came early on a Sunday, and pinpointed the problem with the coolant sensor.

Ronnaldo

12 years of experience
69 reviews
Ronnaldo
12 years of experience
Audi A4 L4-2.0L Turbo - Ignition Coil - Riverdale, Georgia
Thanks to Ronnaldo I was able to get my car fixed on the day I scheduled, probably not at the time I was scheduled because I overslept and didn't hear my phone when he called for my 730am appointment. But thanks to him he called me a few hours later to let me know he could still come fix the issue with my car. So I am very appreciative of the dedication. Also he even went above and beyond to inform me that my coils may still be under warranty so I called AutoZone and they were and he went to AutoZone and picked up all 4 coils and replaced them!

Christopher

21 years of experience
349 reviews
Christopher
21 years of experience
Audi A4 L4-2.0L Turbo - Coolant is leaking - Tampa, Florida
Chris arrived early and was very professional and knowledge. He made the diagnosis quickly, and in fact was able to diagnose both my cars in the time allotted for one. Parts had to be ordered, so I haven't had the repair yet. But Im confident in his abilities and look forward to getting it done.

John

33 years of experience
1126 reviews
John
33 years of experience
Audi A4 L4-1.8L Turbo - Car is not starting - Galveston, Texas
I am a repeat customer for John. he was informative and very helpful with explanations during service. I highly recommend him and his skills.

Excellent Rating

(424)

Rating Summary
390
15
2
2
15
390
15
2
2
15
Number of Audi A4 services completed
4664+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Audi MECHANICS
800+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

P0960 OBD-II Trouble Code: Pressure Control Solenoid A Control Circuit/Open
P0960 P0960 code definition The P0960 code is a generic powertrain code related to the transmission, including pressure faults and sensor failures. In this case, the engine control module (ECM) has received a signal noting that the pressure control solenoid...
P000A OBD-II Trouble Code: "A" Camshaft Position Slow Response Bank 1
P000A code definition This code is known as ‘A’ Camshaft Position Slow Response Bank 1. You may also see a 00010 fault...
How to Buy a Personalized License Plate in Iowa
If If you’ve been looking for a way to make your vehicle a little more fun, a personalized license plate may be perfect for you. A personalized license plate is a great way to add a little bit of flair,...

The car keeps cutting off, i brought idle air contol, mass air flow, and map sensor. What could be wrong

There are many faults that can cause a vehicle to stall. A faulty engine speed sensor or weak fuel pump just to start. If the Check Engine Light (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/what-does-the-check-engine-warning-light-mean) is on, the vehicle can be scanned for fault codes. The...

Front Brakes Locking

Your car is relatively new and so the only thing really that I would expect to replace in the braking system are the brake calipers (other than consumables or maintenance items, of course, such as pads and fluid). To replace...

No oil pressue 2008 tahoe new oil pump

If the engine is not noisey then you may have a bad oil sender and clogged screen under sender and need to remove it and replace or clean it and replace sender. If you check pressure manually at the sender...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com