Mercedes-Benz C230 Battery will not hold a charge Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(342)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(342)

Battery will not hold a charge Inspection Service

How much does a Battery will not hold a charge Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Mercedes-Benz C230 Battery will not hold a charge Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1999 Mercedes-Benz C230L4-2.3L TurboService typeBattery will not hold a charge InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$132.49 - $145.62
2009 Mercedes-Benz C230V6-2.5LService typeBattery will not hold a charge InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
2004 Mercedes-Benz C230L4-1.8L TurboService typeBattery will not hold a charge InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
2006 Mercedes-Benz C230V6-2.5LService typeBattery will not hold a charge InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.48 - $125.60
2005 Mercedes-Benz C230L4-1.8L TurboService typeBattery will not hold a charge InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.55 - $125.72
2003 Mercedes-Benz C230L4-1.8L TurboService typeBattery will not hold a charge InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
1997 Mercedes-Benz C230L4-2.3LService typeBattery will not hold a charge InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$117.28 - $130.25
2007 Mercedes-Benz C230V6-2.5LService typeBattery will not hold a charge InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$117.94 - $131.39
Show example Mercedes-Benz C230 Battery will not hold a charge Inspection prices

Your car has a battery for a very good reason – it provides the initial power needed to crank the engine and get the car running. After that, the alternator takes over, providing the power for your accessories, as well as recharging the battery. If your battery has died and then recharged, and you’ve found that it will not hold a charge (the battery is fine for a little while, but then the charge dissipates), there’s a problem somewhere in your system that must be diagnosed and repaired.

How this system works:

In a normal system, it works like this: Your battery supplies power to the starter and the main relay. The main relay powers the fuel pump and computer. The battery also supplies the initial electric spark to the spark plugs. Once the engine is cranked, the alternator begins turning, which generates the electricity necessary to recharge the battery and to power the engine and other components.

The alternator should always provide enough electricity to recharge the battery and power your other components. If it does not, then the electricity needed comes from the battery and because it’s not being recharged, it will eventually die. Of course, automotive batteries have a limited lifespan – they should be checked regularly after they’re about three years of age (although it’s wise to have them checked at least twice a year no matter how new they might be).

If your battery won’t hold a charge, it means there are problems within the system that are either preventing the battery from being recharged, or draining the battery when the engine is off.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Bad Cell: Batteries will eventually die no matter what. They will develop a bad cell that prevents them from holding a charge and will need to be replaced. This is part of normal vehicle maintenance. Have your battery tested every Spring and Fall to ensure that you’re able to avoid being stranded by a failed battery. Batteries most commonly “die” during hot and cold weather.

  • Low Water: Some batteries have fill holes that allow you to maintain them, although most modern batteries are maintenance free and don’t allow you to add water. If you have a maintainable battery, topping off the water level may solve the problem.

  • Bad Alternator: If the alternator is not charging the battery while the engine operates, the battery will not hold a charge. This is most noticeable if you jump the battery and the engine runs for a while, only to eventually die. It is also observable by watching your headlights – while the engine is running, check the lights. If they start bright but slowly fade, chances are good that the problem is the alternator, not the battery.

  • Corroded Battery Cables: Battery cables and terminals can suffer from corrosion. As it builds up, this corrosion prevents solid contact, and can limit the charge being supplied to the battery from the alternator. Regular maintenance of your battery can prevent this.

  • Loose Alternator Belt: If the alternator belt is loose (old and stretched), it will not operate the alternator properly, which means that the charge the alternator produces may not be enough to recharge the battery.

  • Parasitic Drain: It might be that your battery and alternator are just fine, but there’s something else draining the charge. This could be something as simple as leaving the lights on, or having an accessory plugged in to an “always on” power outlet, or it could be a stuck relay or something else that’s pulling power from the battery when the engine isn’t running.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your office, home or other location to inspect the battery, the alternator and other components of the charging system. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will test your battery, alternator and starter. The mechanic will also check for parasitic drain and other problems that might make your battery not hold a charge. It may be necessary to replace your battery in order to diagnose other system-wide problems (if the battery has developed a bad cell).

How important is this service?

If your battery won’t hold a charge, it’s not safe to drive your car. Even if your alternator is working fine, turning the car off for something as simple as stopping at the gas station will mean that the engine won’t crank and you’ll need to jump it off. One of our top-rated mechanics can diagnose the problem and get you back up and running.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Mercedes-Benz mechanics

Real customer reviews from Mercedes-Benz owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(342)

Rating Summary
316
13
5
4
4
316
13
5
4
4

Allen

36 years of experience
471 reviews
Allen
36 years of experience
Mercedes-Benz C230 L4-1.8L Turbo - Valve Cover Gasket - Deltona, Florida
Yet again Allen has showed up and got straight to his job, he fixed my valve cover gasket fast, and after he explained to me what was going on I felt at ease knowing that he is the mechanic that was sent to work on my car. He lets me know of other things that needs to be done for my car to keep it running good. Thank you Allen for being "My Mechanic"

Mike

28 years of experience
35 reviews
Mike
28 years of experience
Mercedes-Benz C230 L4-2.3L Turbo - Check Engine Light is on - Conroe, Texas

Erick

10 years of experience
182 reviews
Erick
10 years of experience
Mercedes-Benz C230 V6-2.5L - Oil Change - San Jose, California
good

Chris

16 years of experience
331 reviews
Chris
16 years of experience
Mercedes-Benz C230 V6-2.5L - Oil/Fluid Leak - San Diego, California
It was reassuring to know exactly what is wrong with my vehicle prior to going to the dealership. Having an idea of what and how much to expect, Chris gave me that.

Excellent Rating

(342)

Rating Summary
316
13
5
4
4
316
13
5
4
4
Number of Mercedes-Benz C230 services completed
3762+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Mercedes-Benz MECHANICS
1100+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

P0188 OBD-II Trouble Code: Fuel Temperature Sensor "B" Circuit High Input
P0188 P0188 trouble code definition Fuel Temperature Sensor "B" Circuit High Input What the P0188 code means The fuel temperature sensor identifies the presence of contamination, such as water, ethanol, or dirt. It also measures the fuel temperature inside the...
What's the Difference Among OES, OEM, and Aftermarket Car Parts?
Aftermarket auto parts can be good quality and cheaper than Original Equipment Supplier (OES) and Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) car parts.
How to Save on Car Insurance With a Defensive Driving Discount
Defensive driving classes can reduce your car insurance rate and teach you essential driving skills like how to handle skids and use anti-lock brakes.

Steering stopped working while I was driving

A recall on Ford Escapes came out in 2014 related to this issue. The torque sensor on the steering column is the likely cause of failure as this has been the case for many other Escape owners. Unfortunately to replace...

Accelerator cable came off

It sounds like the throttle cable has broke and needs to be replaced. I would have a certified technician come out and see if they can get it back on or, if it is in fact broken, have the throttle...

1998 Mazda protege: Had the EGR valve replaced, cleared the computer codes, still get the check engine light then a EGR problem co

Code P0400 (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p0400-obd-ii-trouble-code-exhaust-gas-recirculation-flow-malfunction-by-jay-safford) does not necessarily mean that there is something wrong with the EGR valve itself. The only way to condemn the EGR valve is to directly test it. In particular Code P0400 includes a circumstance where the EGR...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com