Mercedes-Benz 560SEL Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(5)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(5)

Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection Service

How much does a Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Mercedes-Benz 560SEL Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1988 Mercedes-Benz 560SELV8-5.6LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$132.49 - $145.62
1991 Mercedes-Benz 560SELV8-5.6LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
1986 Mercedes-Benz 560SELV8-5.6LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
1989 Mercedes-Benz 560SELV8-5.6LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.48 - $125.60
1990 Mercedes-Benz 560SELV8-5.6LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.55 - $125.72
1987 Mercedes-Benz 560SELV8-5.6LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
Show example Mercedes-Benz 560SEL Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection prices

Depending on the make and model you drive, you might have disc brakes on the front and drum brakes on the rear, or you could have four-wheel disc brakes. These are becoming more and more common today. However, regardless of the configuration, you should not have a loud noise coming from the rear brakes. This indicates that something has gone wrong, and there are several potential culprits.

How this system works:

Your rear brakes work similar to the front brakes. The master cylinder sends pressurized fluid through the brake lines. If you have rear drum brakes, the fluid causes the actuator to push the brake shoes outward, where they press against the inside of the drum. In the case of rear disc brakes, the fluid activates the caliper, which then squeezes the caliper between two brake pads.

This is identical to how your front brakes operate, but the pads are generally smaller than those used on the front. This is because most of the stopping power in your car is generated in the front.

However, your rear brakes are just as important as the front, and if you’re noticing a loud noise from the rear during braking, it could be a number of different things, depending on the type of noise and when it occurs.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Worn Brake Pads: Obviously, the most common potential problem here is worn out rear pads (or shoes if you have drum brakes). If you notice a loud grinding sound, it could be the metal backing plate from the pads making contact with the rotor.

  • Broken or Missing Caliper Bolt: Your calipers are essentially two halves held together with bolts (not the slide pins). If one of the bolts is missing or broken, it’s possible that part of the caliper has popped out and is making contact with your wheel.

  • Contact with the Squealer: Squealers are metal tabs designed to lightly contact the rotor and create a noise that warns you the pads are wearing down. If your pads are nearing the end of their life, it’s possible this is the noise you’re hearing.

  • Parking Brake Shoes Stuck: Your parking brake is located in the rear of the car. In a disc brake setup, there are shoes located inside the inner drum built into the rotor. If the shoes are stuck, it’s possible that the sound you’re hearing is them contacting metal while you’re driving.

  • Wheel Bearing Failure: If the noise you’re hearing is a “howl” and it’s constant, the first thing to suspect would be one of the wheel bearings (whichever side is the loudest while you’re driving).

  • Pads Settling into Place: If the sound you’re hearing is more of a “pop” or a loud click, it might be nothing more than your brake pads being slightly worn and settling into place when you push the brake pedal.

  • Normal Pad Vibration: If you only hear the noise when you’re backing up, it’s possible that it is just a normal vibration caused by the friction material of the pad lightly contacting the rotor’s surface. This is called “resonant frequency”, and can occur with both disc and drum brakes.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office and will inspect your rear brakes. This inspection will include the drums and shoes or the rotors and calipers. It should also include the brake lines and other components. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect your rear brake pads, the rotors, calipers, and the brake lines. It may be necessary to remove one or both rear wheels for a visual inspection. It may also be necessary to test drive the vehicle if the source of the problem is not immediately apparent in order for the mechanic to verify any and all noises.

How important is this service?

The mechanic will visually inspect the rear brakes, as well as other components that might be causing the noise you’re experiencing. It might be necessary for the mechanic to test drive the vehicle in order to duplicate the noise and better diagnose the problem.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Mercedes-Benz mechanics

Real customer reviews from Mercedes-Benz owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(5)

Rating Summary
3
1
1
0
0
3
1
1
0
0

Mark

18 years of experience
72 reviews
Mark
18 years of experience
Mercedes-Benz 560SEL V8-5.6L - Check Ignition System - Cincinnati, Ohio
Mark made a good effort, at the end of the day my vehicles not repaired and I paid $70 to find out what I already know, my lock pin is sticking. Don't wish to disparage Mark, again he tried. Disappointed, thought whoever came would know how to repair it

Ruben

17 years of experience
169 reviews
Ruben
17 years of experience
Mercedes-Benz 560SEL V8-5.6L - Alternator - Charlotte, North Carolina
After the two disappointing missed appointments and lack of communication everything else was 100%

Scott

28 years of experience
7 reviews
Scott
28 years of experience
Mercedes-Benz 560SEL V8-5.6L - Car is not starting - Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
He was on time, very knowledgable

Jason

24 years of experience
57 reviews
Jason
24 years of experience
Mercedes-Benz 560SEL V8-5.6L - Spark Plug Replacement - Norman, Oklahoma
He was a blessing. Thank you for fixing my ride. He was nice and very helpful.i will call agin

Excellent Rating

(5)

Rating Summary
3
1
1
0
0
3
1
1
0
0
Number of Mercedes-Benz 560SEL services completed
55+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Mercedes-Benz MECHANICS
1100+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

How to Tell if Your Car is Front or Rear-Wheel Drive
Every Every car has a drivetrain of some sort. The drivetrain is a system of transferring your car engine’s horsepower to the drive wheels that propels your car. The drivetrain consists of: Axle shafts Differential Propeller shaft Transfer case Transmission...
Oklahoma Speed Limits, Laws, and Fines
Following Following is an overview of the laws, limits, and fines as they relate to speeding traffic violations in the state of Oklahoma. Speed limits in Oklahoma 75 mph: turnpikes and rural interstates 70 mph: other freeways 65 mph: most...
How to Replace a Refrigerant Pressure Sensor
The air conditioning system has a refrigerant pressure sensor that goes bad when the air conditioning does not work or only works intermittently.

Hello, Im having hard time with choosing vehicle for work

You did not mention what motor or transmissions either of the vehicles have. These are the biggest and most expensive repair concerns on any used vehicles. Firstly, I would not recommend buying a used vehicle (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-buy-a-used-car) without having a qualified...

What kind of modification/performance can I do to my car?

Hello - the best way to keep your Altima running like new is "attentive maintenance (https://www.yourmechanic.com/scheduled-maintenance/nissan-altima/?year=2009&mileage=150000)". Keep fluids (oil, transmission fluid, coolant) topped off and changed at recommended intervals. If your timing chain and associated components (tensioner, idler, chain guides,...

How much is a flywheel and torque converter? Are those parts worth replacing on my vehicle?

When the starter was diagnosed as bad the flywheel teeth the starter mate to when trying to turn over the engine may have broken or worn teeth and cannot engage each other anymore. Why the torque converter would need replaced...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com