Mazda Protege Car will not turn over Inspection at your home or office.

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Car will not turn over Inspection Service

How much does a Car will not turn over Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Mazda Protege Car will not turn over Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2001 Mazda ProtegeL4-1.6LService typeCar will not turn over InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
2003 Mazda ProtegeL4-2.0L TurboService typeCar will not turn over InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1990 Mazda ProtegeL4-1.8LService typeCar will not turn over InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1999 Mazda ProtegeL4-1.8LService typeCar will not turn over InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
2002 Mazda ProtegeL4-2.0LService typeCar will not turn over InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
2000 Mazda ProtegeL4-1.6LService typeCar will not turn over InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1991 Mazda ProtegeL4-1.8LService typeCar will not turn over InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
2000 Mazda ProtegeL4-1.8LService typeCar will not turn over InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$110.24 - $117.94
Show example Mazda Protege Car will not turn over Inspection prices

Generally, when you turn the key to “run” position, the engine cranks (turns over), and starts running. You’re then free to put the transmission in gear and drive. If your car won’t turn over, it means you’re stranded wherever you were when it broke down. There are several potential causes for this problem as well.

How this system works:

Any situation in which your car won’t turn over involves your ignition system. There’s a problem somewhere in there, but quite a few components play a significant role, so there will have to be some narrowing down of the options to determine what’s causing the problem.

When you turn the key in your ignition, several things happen. First, the battery sends voltage to the starter, the spark plugs and the main relay. The starter is what’s responsible for turning the engine over initially. The spark plugs create the spark needed to ignite gasoline vapor. The main relay turns on the fuel pump, which sends gasoline from the tank to the engine.

If there’s a problem with any one of these components, then your car may not turn over. Depending on the problem, you may hear nothing but a clicking noise when you turn the key, or you may hear the engine trying to turn over, but not quite managing it.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Dead Battery: The single most common reason for a no start condition is a dead battery. If the battery is dead, then no voltage can be sent to the other components, including the starter. The battery may have a bad cell, or there could be a parasitic drain that’s causing the issue.

  • Failed Starter: While rarer than a dead battery, starters can and do fail. They’re considered a high-wear component, and you’ll eventually need to replace yours. The most common issue with starters is the solenoid, but it can also be a problem with the Bendix or even the wiring.

  • Bad Alternator: If the alternator isn’t charging the battery, then supplying the electricity needed to run your engine and accessories will drain the battery’s charge. The engine might stall out while you’re driving, or it might not crank the next time you get in.

  • Failed Main Relay: It’s entirely possible that your battery, starter and alternator are fine, and the problem is actually a failed main relay. If this happens, the fuel pump will not kick on when you turn the ignition to “run”.

What to expect:

One of our highly trained mechanics will come to your home or office to inspect your ignition system, including the battery, starter, alternator, main relay and other components. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will first inspect the battery, and then move on to testing other components in the system, including the alternator, the starter and the main relay. It may be necessary to charge or replace the battery before further diagnostics can be completed.

How important is this service?

If your car won’t turn over, you’re dead in the water. It’s a tough place to be, particularly if you weren’t at home when the problem happened. The most important defense against this condition is to have your charging system regularly inspected. This will test the battery, starter and alternator, and alert you to potential problems before they become serious issues. One of our professional mechanics can inspect your car and repair your no start problem.

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Meet some of our expert Mazda mechanics

Real customer reviews from Mazda owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(181)

Rating Summary
168
5
1
1
6
168
5
1
1
6

Steven

14 years of experience
425 reviews
Steven
14 years of experience
Mazda Protege L4-1.6L - Brake safety inspection - Phoenix, Arizona
excellent work and very friendly and explaining everything to you.

Chet

41 years of experience
493 reviews
Chet
41 years of experience
Mazda Protege L4-2.0L - Clutch pedal goes all the way to the floor - La Jolla, California
Chet investigated the problem very carefully, explained all the issues to me in a very comprehensible manner, and described how the situation could be dealt with. He was thorough, friendly, and patient--a true gentleman, and a real expert.

Damian

11 years of experience
430 reviews
Damian
11 years of experience
Mazda Protege L4-1.5L - Battery - Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
This was my first time using "Your Mechanic" and I had a terrific experience. I will definitely recommend the service to others. It is convenient, reasonably priced, and easy to use. (I was impressed, and I am not easily impressed!). The customer service was even excellent! So far I have given the information about this company to several other people that I know. For years I had the same mechanic until he retired. I was having trouble finding another company that I really liked. This is no longer a problem. Damian is a first-class mechanic and I have now adopted him as my mechanic.

Deane

11 years of experience
340 reviews
Deane
11 years of experience
Mazda Protege L4-2.0L - Alternator Belt - Oceanside, California
Deane can be trusted with any advice he offers.

Excellent Rating

(181)

Rating Summary
168
5
1
1
6
168
5
1
1
6
Number of Mazda Protege services completed
1991+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Mazda MECHANICS
1100+
experts on our platform

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I have a 2003 VW Passat W8 wagon. I was driving, I zoomed up to 60 quite nicely after just finishing a repair to my VVT actuators. It idled great again, so I was happy. Just as I thanked my stars etc, the engine cut to idle with my foot on the gas. I limped along with intermittent engine throttle. I decided to try turning the engine off and restating it. It worked and I drive, carefully, around to several errands that day. It got worse and was a real puzzle. I replaced the throttle body. No difference at all. My OBDII showed that the VVT Actuator failure codes WERE GONE, YAY. But it showed a 2101 throttle body actuator motor malfunction and of course with the engine cutting out like that, it recorded timing advanced on the exhaust actuators on both sides of the V8. Errors, not actuator failures. I think it looks like I have an intermittant connection to my Throttle body. How can I, by myself, fix this? If I take it anywhere, the MO if shoos is to find faulty part, replace part with OEM part and done. That's not going to work on a 17 year old car. I drove it all day yesterday and the throttle cut but I pulled my foot of the gas so fast it did not even turn on the engine light. When I was almost home, I floored it and made it fail with the 2101 Throttle body Actuator motor failure. But it's brand new. It's a wiring problem. What can I do?I have had the seat module fail. I just pulled the plugs and out them back on, with some anticorrosion spray and it's worked for 10 more years. I COULD be a corroded connection.

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