Jeep Gladiator Control Arm Assembly Replacement at your home or office.

Our mobile mechanics offer services 7 days a week. Upfront and transparent pricing.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(33)

Included for free with this service

Online Booking

Mechanic comes to you

12-month / 12k-mile warranty

Free 50 point safety inspection

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to your home or office 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Customer Ratings

(33)

Control Arm Assembly Replacement Service

How much does a Control Arm Assembly Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a Jeep Gladiator Control Arm Assembly Replacement is $216 with $121 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1968 Jeep GladiatorL6-3.8LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$514.07Shop/Dealer Price$616.34 - $891.65
1966 Jeep GladiatorL6-3.8LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$541.31Shop/Dealer Price$662.91 - $1005.16
1964 Jeep GladiatorL6-3.8LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$336.83Shop/Dealer Price$407.31 - $596.20
1962 Jeep GladiatorL6-3.8LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$835.93Shop/Dealer Price$1031.16 - $1594.36
1967 Jeep GladiatorL6-3.8LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$382.51Shop/Dealer Price$458.93 - $656.61
1967 Jeep GladiatorV8-5.3LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$336.83Shop/Dealer Price$407.31 - $596.20
1967 Jeep GladiatorL6-3.8LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$493.07Shop/Dealer Price$595.17 - $870.36
1966 Jeep GladiatorV8-5.3LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$546.31Shop/Dealer Price$668.14 - $1010.58
Show example Jeep Gladiator Control Arm Assembly Replacement prices

What is a control arm and how does it work?

A control arm is a suspension component, usually made of heavy gauge steel or aluminum, that links the steering knuckle in the front — or axle carrier in the rear — to the frame of the vehicle. Many vehicles have upper and lower control arms. The inboard link(s) of the arm securely bolt to the frame of the vehicle through rubber bushings, while the outboard link of the control arm connects to the steering knuckle through a ball joint; all of which allow the control of the up and down movement of the steering knuckle or axle carrier. This minimizes the transmission of shock and vibration to the vehicle’s body.

When to consider replacing a control arm:

The structural portion of the control arm can last the life of the vehicle — except for cases of corrosion or crash damage. However, the rubber bushings and the ball joint in a control arm have a limited life. A mechanic should investigate if you notice:

  • Wheel alignment difficulties. Should the bushings, or the ball joint, in a control arm be worn, it will be impossible to properly align the vehicle. The worn components, or the entire arm, must be replaced.
  • Vehicle won’t track straight or pulls to one side. A car will not track straight and may require constant steering correction if there is a worn, bent, or loose control arm.
  • Clunking or squeaking noise. A loose control arm, or a control arm with dried out, rotted, or loose bushings, may move enough to cause detectable noise from the suspension as you go over bumps in the road.
  • Vehicle pulls to one side only when braking. Worn bushings or ball joints can allow control arm to shift when braking, causing the vehicle to pull to one side. Although, this could also be caused by brake calipers.

How do mechanics replace a control arm?

  • The vehicle is raised and supported on steel jack stands, and the wheel and tire assembly is removed.
  • Stabilizer bar links are detached from the control arm, if applicable. ABS wiring to the wheel speed sensor, if routed along the arm, is disconnected.
  • Control arm mounting bolts are detached from the frame and from the axle carrier if the control arm is in the rear.
  • For front control arms connected to the steering knuckle via a ball joint, the nut is removed from the ball joint stud and the stud is pushed through the steering knuckle to free the arm.
  • The arm is lowered from the vehicle and examined by the mechanic to confirm that the noise, or other problem, actually originated from a defect in the arm.
  • The new arm is installed using new mounting bolts if required by the service manual. In many cases, the fasteners must be tightened with the vehicle weight on the suspension in order to ensure the bushings are in a neutral, or resting, position.
  • The vehicle is lowered and road tested to confirm the problem is resolved. Replacing a control arm will change the vehicle alignment settings and the mechanic will refer you to a professional alignment shop to have the vehicle alignment set to factory specifications.

Is it safe to drive with a control arm problem?

No. If the car wanders on the road, pulls to one side, or noise from the suspension is loud, you need to schedule repair right away. Should the problem be limited to low levels of noise, such as clunking or squeaking, continued use of the car is reasonable until you can schedule a repair. Should the control arms be damaged as a result of a collision, it would be unsafe to drive the car until it is repaired.

When replacing a control arm keep in mind:

  • The number of control arm types vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the design of the vehicle suspension.
  • Control arms should be replaced in pairs — arms on both sides of a front or rear axle — if the reason for replacement is worn control arm bushings or a worn ball joint.
  • All other suspension components should be inspected when control arms are replaced because looseness, damage, or excessive wear in other parts of the suspension system will make it impossible to perform a wheel alignment after the control arms are replaced.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Jeep mechanics

Real customer reviews from Jeep owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(33)

Rating Summary
30
2
0
0
1
30
2
0
0
1

Lemard

21 years of experience
26 reviews
Lemard
21 years of experience
Jeep Liberty V6-3.7L - Control Arm Assembly Replacement (Front Upper Left) - Fultondale, Alabama
Excellent service! Very kind and polite. Fast service. Very happy!

Cognac

20 years of experience
73 reviews
Cognac
20 years of experience
Jeep Wrangler L6-4.0L - Control Arm Assembly Replacement (Front Upper Left, Front Lower Left, Front Lower Right) - Memphis, Tennessee
He knows his cars but not his jeeps.

Carlos

16 years of experience
362 reviews
Carlos
16 years of experience
Jeep Liberty V6-3.7L - Control Arm Assembly Replacement (Front Upper Left, Front Upper Right) - Fort Worth, Texas
Carlos is prompt, well prepared, knowledgeable, and hard working. I appreciate his honesty and excellent work ethic. This was our second time to hire Carlos and it won't be our last.

Dwaine

45 years of experience
39 reviews
Dwaine
45 years of experience
Jeep Patriot L4-2.4L - Control Arm Assembly Replacement (Front Lower Left) - Tampa, Florida
Dwaine was the biggest help for me, he showed up at my office around 12:30 to find out that my car needed a special part. He went and picked that part up for me, brought it back, and worked for almost 6 hours total so that I could be back on the road that night. The whole time he never complained, and made sure that he would get this done. I highly recommend Dwaine to help with your car!

Excellent Rating

(33)

Rating Summary
30
2
0
0
1
30
2
0
0
1
Number of Jeep Control Arm Assembly Replacement services completed
363+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Jeep MECHANICS
1300+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

A Buyer’s Guide to the 2012 Dodge Charger
If If you’ve always loved driving performance cars but you don't know how you’ll fit a baby seat in a Mustang or a Camaro, the 2012 Dodge Charger could be the car for you. While it has the room and...
2005 Kia Sorento vs. 2005 Chevrolet Blazer: Which One Should I Buy?
SUVs are great for playing out in the mud, taking kids and friends around to different places, as well as just running errands around town. While they are not known to be terrific for gas mileage, that problem is negated...
How to Know What to Look for in a Car Ad
When When you are in the market for a used car, you’ll need to sort through advertisements and sales flyers in order to choose the right car for you. Car advertisements (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-advertise-your-used-car-by-jason-unrau) include details about the car’s condition and usage,...

The car won't start - 2012 Ford Explorer

Hi there. This may be related to a failing starter or starter solenoid. The starter solenoid is located on the starter and has internal electrical contacts that transmit electricity to the starter. When this fails, it may cause a clicking...

Overheating/no leaks

Hello. If the cooling system is not leaking, then the engine is consuming the coolant. This is usually attributed to a faulty head gasket. Does the oil have any signs of coolant or water in it? It will look like...

Does the rear wheel bearing replacement needs pressing or not? 2004 Acura RL

Hello - if you replace the wheel bearing/hub assembly (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/is-it-safe-to-drive-with-a-wheel-bearing-gone), no, it does not require pressing. This is the recommended replacement approach. Pressing the bearing off/onto the hub requires specialized equipment, with high risk for damage. I would recommend a...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com