GMC R3500 Grinding noise when braking Inspection at your home or office.

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Grinding noise when braking Inspection Service

How much does a Grinding noise when braking Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a GMC R3500 Grinding noise when braking Inspection is $105 with $0 for parts and $105 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1991 GMC R3500V8-7.4LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$124.99Shop/Dealer Price$133.39 - $139.69
1990 GMC R3500V8-7.4LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$113.41 - $119.72
1989 GMC R3500V8-5.7LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$113.41 - $119.72
1988 GMC R3500V8-6.2L DieselService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$113.39 - $119.68
1990 GMC R3500V8-5.7LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$113.42 - $119.75
1988 GMC R3500V8-7.4LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$113.41 - $119.72
1989 GMC R3500V8-6.2L DieselService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$124.99Shop/Dealer Price$130.87 - $135.28
1989 GMC R3500V8-7.4LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$124.99Shop/Dealer Price$131.24 - $135.94
Show example GMC R3500 Grinding noise when braking Inspection prices

Today’s drivers are pretty comfortable with modern braking technologies. We’ve become so used to the advanced technology that makes slowing and stopping our cars possible that we take it for granted – at least until something goes wrong. Disc brakes are subject to a number of problems, as well as wear and tear, and if you’re hearing a grinding noise when braking, then you need to take action immediately.

How this system works:

The modern disc brake system is actually relatively simple to understand, although it does require a significant network of components in order to operate. For the purposes of this discussion, we’ll limit the scope to just the components mounted around the wheel hub – the ones that might be responsible for the grinding sound you’re hearing.

There are several components here – brake lines deliver pressurized fluid to the brake caliper, which holds and actuates the brake pads. Brake pads are made with a metal backing plate and a high-friction material on the other side. This material is designed to press up against the surface of the rotor, slowing and stopping the car as the caliper squeezes the rotor between the pads.

Over time, pads wear down. It’s a simple fact of life. You’ll need to replace them periodically, although the frequency of replacement will vary depending on your driving habits, local geography (hills, mountains, etc.) and other factors.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Excessive Pad Wear: The single most common reason to hear a grinding noise when braking is excessive pad wear. Once the material has been worn off the backing plate, you’ll be experiencing “metal on metal”. Part of the brake caliper could also be touching the rotor at this point. Both cause extensive damage – the backing plate will eat into the rotor, causing grooves and serious damage. The caliper will do the same thing, but the rotor will also eat into the metal of the caliper, potentially causing the need for replacement.

  • Foreign Debris Lodged in Brakes: It’s also possible to have foreign debris lodged in the brake system. The most common example would be a rock or piece of gravel caught in the caliper and riding between the caliper and the rotor. This can cause damage to the rotor as well, and you’ll generally hear the sound even when you’re not pressing the brake pedal.

  • Low Quality Brake Pads: If you’ve had your brake pads replaced recently and are now hearing a grinding sound, it could be because low quality pads were used. Semi-metallic pads can sometimes contain hard chunks of metal that will eat into the rotors and cause a grinding sound when applied (always use OEM quality brake pads).

  • Wear Indicator Contacting Rotor: If the sound you’re hearing is more of a squealing than a grinding, chances are good that it is the wear indicator on your pads connecting with the rotor. This comes preinstalled on many brake pads and is designed to warn you that the pad material is getting low and you’ll need to replace them soon.

What to expect:

One of our professional mobile mechanics will visit your home or office to inspect the brakes and determine if the problem is due to wear and tear, or if there is something deeper going wrong, such as the rotor being grooved by the caliper. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect your brake pads, the rotors, calipers, and the brake lines feeding the calipers. It may be necessary to remove one or both front wheels for a visual inspection. It may also be necessary to test drive the vehicle if the source of the problem is not immediately apparent in order for the mechanic to verify the grinding noise.

How important is this service?

If you’re hearing a grinding sound when applying the brakes, there is definitely something that needs to be addressed. It might be something as simple as the wear indicators on the pads connecting with the rotor, or it could be something more serious. If you have worn completely through the pads and your brakes are now “metal on metal”, it’s essential to your safety to replace your pads and have the rotors resurfaced now. In some cases, the damage to the rotor may be severe enough to require replacement.

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Tomas

17 years of experience
226 reviews
Tomas
17 years of experience
GMC R3500 V8-5.7L - Brake System Inspection - Newark, New Jersey
Pretty good. My inspection for my brakes went very quick, (a little too quick.) Not the most thorough inspection. However, Tomas came to the same conclusion that I had already suspected and the problem is now "dually" analyzed. 15 minutes, and I'm good. Tomas was quite knowledgeable and polite. He came with the proper tools and equipment to say the least and was promptly on time for the booked appointment. I would consider requesting Tomas again for similar work. Thanks again to Tomas and the team at YourMechanic for helping out.

Eduardo

19 years of experience
555 reviews
Eduardo
19 years of experience
GMC Yukon V8-5.3L - Electric Problems - Houston, Texas
Inspection and Diagnostic Was 100% wrong. On all parts. Problem: All Rear lights flickering Inspection: Diagnostic: Turn signal, tail lights bad connections Repair Signal and connections recommendations: Remove and Replace Multi functional turn signal switch. also has bad connection between turn signal and tail lights. Replace Rear lamp harness connectors. L&R side. All diagnostic and recommendations Was accurately completed. That cost my son, greatly in unnecessary repair cost. That didn't fix the problem or anything else. and didn't need to be replaced or fixed, still had power to the replaced parts and in good working order. Following the recommended repairs ended up adding additional problems, truck remote and driverside door. Has lost all control functions and alarm has to be set manually and individually. False warning lights and codes popping up. Preventing from addressing real problem, until to late and check engine pressure light comes on and knocking noise from engine appears, after addressing and clearing of warning lights and codes. That had already been fixed or was a wrong random code that needed no action to be taken. I asked a repair forum and explained in detail. And Jacob recommended I start from troubleshooting from the simplest solution and make my way up if necessary. First obviously, check the brake lamp bulbs are correct and there was power to the build and sockets. Check. Next make sure the ground connection by the rear hitch wasn't broken or damaged while the brake light bulbs was being removed and replaced. And we have a winner. The ground connection. Fixed all rear lights. They're working normal again. A $0 fix cost my son over $800 in parts and labor fees. And now a motor. New Battery, New O2 sensors up/ down replaced, ignition coils and wires replaced, spark plugs, oil change, oil gasket replacement, filters. Valve Cover Gasket replaced. No leaks anywhere. Replaced the recommended, set off false codes. After getting it reset. Check oil pressure light comes on and knocking noises occur. Next day motor is needed. All could had been prevented if the obvious connection test was performed. I would recommend yourmechanic.com. I have a appt scheduled. Pay attention to the mechanic. Cost my self paying college son a vehicle.

Edmar

22 years of experience
246 reviews
Edmar
22 years of experience
GMC C1500 V6-4.3L - Car is not starting - Bedford, Texas
Edmar did a great job! He showed up on time and was very professional. He was able to fully check the ignition and fuel systems on my 1996 Chevrolet truck saving me time, money, and frustration. Highly recommend! I will not hesitate to use Edmar and Your Mechanic again.

Dustin

13 years of experience
41 reviews
Dustin
13 years of experience
GMC Envoy L6-4.2L - Car is not starting - Galena Park, Texas
Dustin was on time, very courteous and efficient as he diagnosed my vehicle while going beyond the call of duty to help me with the problem I was having.

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