Buick Cascada Control Arm Assembly Replacement at your home or office.

Our mobile mechanics offer services 7 days a week. Upfront and transparent pricing.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(5)

Included for free with this service

Online Booking

Mechanic comes to you

12-month / 12k-mile warranty

Free 50 point safety inspection

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to your home or office 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Customer Ratings

(5)

Control Arm Assembly Replacement Service

How much does a Control Arm Assembly Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a Buick Cascada Control Arm Assembly Replacement is $254 with $114 for parts and $140 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2018 Buick CascadaL4-1.6L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$398.08Shop/Dealer Price$458.94 - $632.59
2017 Buick CascadaL4-1.6L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$388.17Shop/Dealer Price$447.08 - $619.28
2018 Buick CascadaL4-1.6L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$373.57Shop/Dealer Price$432.32 - $604.40
2016 Buick CascadaL4-1.6L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$388.17Shop/Dealer Price$447.11 - $619.32
2016 Buick CascadaL4-1.6L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$388.17Shop/Dealer Price$448.73 - $622.16
2017 Buick CascadaL4-1.6L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$388.17Shop/Dealer Price$447.26 - $619.60
2018 Buick CascadaL4-1.6L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$388.17Shop/Dealer Price$447.12 - $619.36
2018 Buick CascadaL4-1.6L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$388.17Shop/Dealer Price$447.11 - $619.32
Show example Buick Cascada Control Arm Assembly Replacement prices

What is a control arm and how does it work?

A control arm is a suspension component, usually made of heavy gauge steel or aluminum, that links the steering knuckle in the front — or axle carrier in the rear — to the frame of the vehicle. Many vehicles have upper and lower control arms. The inboard link(s) of the arm securely bolt to the frame of the vehicle through rubber bushings, while the outboard link of the control arm connects to the steering knuckle through a ball joint; all of which allow the control of the up and down movement of the steering knuckle or axle carrier. This minimizes the transmission of shock and vibration to the vehicle’s body.

When to consider replacing a control arm:

The structural portion of the control arm can last the life of the vehicle — except for cases of corrosion or crash damage. However, the rubber bushings and the ball joint in a control arm have a limited life. A mechanic should investigate if you notice:

  • Wheel alignment difficulties. Should the bushings, or the ball joint, in a control arm be worn, it will be impossible to properly align the vehicle. The worn components, or the entire arm, must be replaced.
  • Vehicle won’t track straight or pulls to one side. A car will not track straight and may require constant steering correction if there is a worn, bent, or loose control arm.
  • Clunking or squeaking noise. A loose control arm, or a control arm with dried out, rotted, or loose bushings, may move enough to cause detectable noise from the suspension as you go over bumps in the road.
  • Vehicle pulls to one side only when braking. Worn bushings or ball joints can allow control arm to shift when braking, causing the vehicle to pull to one side. Although, this could also be caused by brake calipers.

How do mechanics replace a control arm?

  • The vehicle is raised and supported on steel jack stands, and the wheel and tire assembly is removed.
  • Stabilizer bar links are detached from the control arm, if applicable. ABS wiring to the wheel speed sensor, if routed along the arm, is disconnected.
  • Control arm mounting bolts are detached from the frame and from the axle carrier if the control arm is in the rear.
  • For front control arms connected to the steering knuckle via a ball joint, the nut is removed from the ball joint stud and the stud is pushed through the steering knuckle to free the arm.
  • The arm is lowered from the vehicle and examined by the mechanic to confirm that the noise, or other problem, actually originated from a defect in the arm.
  • The new arm is installed using new mounting bolts if required by the service manual. In many cases, the fasteners must be tightened with the vehicle weight on the suspension in order to ensure the bushings are in a neutral, or resting, position.
  • The vehicle is lowered and road tested to confirm the problem is resolved. Replacing a control arm will change the vehicle alignment settings and the mechanic will refer you to a professional alignment shop to have the vehicle alignment set to factory specifications.

Is it safe to drive with a control arm problem?

No. If the car wanders on the road, pulls to one side, or noise from the suspension is loud, you need to schedule repair right away. Should the problem be limited to low levels of noise, such as clunking or squeaking, continued use of the car is reasonable until you can schedule a repair. Should the control arms be damaged as a result of a collision, it would be unsafe to drive the car until it is repaired.

When replacing a control arm keep in mind:

  • The number of control arm types vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the design of the vehicle suspension.
  • Control arms should be replaced in pairs — arms on both sides of a front or rear axle — if the reason for replacement is worn control arm bushings or a worn ball joint.
  • All other suspension components should be inspected when control arms are replaced because looseness, damage, or excessive wear in other parts of the suspension system will make it impossible to perform a wheel alignment after the control arms are replaced.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Buick mechanics

Real customer reviews from Buick owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(5)

Rating Summary
5
0
0
0
0
5
0
0
0
0

Richard

22 years of experience
237 reviews
Richard
22 years of experience
Buick Cascada L4-1.6L Turbo - Pre-purchase Car Inspection - Naples, Florida
My first time in this website and I really liked it. Richard was very good.

Sebastian

6 years of experience
254 reviews
Sebastian
6 years of experience
Buick Cascada L4-1.6L Turbo - Pre-purchase Car Inspection - Boynton Beach, Florida
Sebastian was very professional and gave me the highlights of what I needed to know for my pre-purchase. He exceeded my expectations. I will circle back and reach out to him should I need a quality mechanic in the future.

Manuel

13 years of experience
140 reviews
Manuel
13 years of experience
Buick Cascada L4-1.6L Turbo - Car Battery Replacement - Naples, Florida
ggreat

Anthony

29 years of experience
114 reviews
Anthony
29 years of experience
Buick Cascada L4-1.6L Turbo - Pre-purchase Car Inspection - Brookhaven, New York
I can’t say enough good things about my experience with Anthony. He is very professional, courteous and knowledgeable. His inspection of my vehicle was above and beyond what I thought it would be. Thorough doesn’t even begin to describe it. If you are looking for an honest and trustworthy mechanic look no further, Anthony is the real deal.

Excellent Rating

(5)

Rating Summary
5
0
0
0
0
5
0
0
0
0
Number of Buick Cascada services completed
55+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Buick MECHANICS
800+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

A Buyer’s Guide to the 2012 Cadillac CTS
The The 2012 Cadillac CTS comes with high tech features and a large amount of standard equipment when compared to its Japanese and European counterparts. The CTS is available in wagon, coupe, and sedan models to fit the needs of...
P0774 OBD-II Trouble Code: Shift Solenoid E Intermittent
P0774 means the PCM registered a problem in shift solenoid E, caused by low ATF level, failed shift solenoid, or blocked transmission passages.
Industry News for Automotive Techs: October 15-21
This week: home-brewed autonomous car, sneak peek at future Jeeps, scheming car hackers, Ram's off-road TRX concept, new turbo test kit from Lisle.

Car shakes when I reach 60 mph

Shaking or vibrating may be caused by many different things such as faulty spark plugs, poor fuel pressure or misfires. Other things such as a faulty idle air control valve (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/idle-control-valve-replacement) may cause the engine idle to drop below the...

Front wheel of truck won't move and making grinding noise

If you had your brakes removed and hub will not turn freely then it is the bearing in the hub. I would recommend replacing both front hub bearings since they both have equal amount of wear and the other side...

Hoses connected to throttle body

Any hoses that would connect to a throttle body are either going to be for coolant or vacuum. In order to determine where the hoses go from the throttle body, I would recommend following them with a flashlight and or...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (844) 997-3624 · hi@yourmechanic.com