Audi e-tron GT Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(2,467)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(2,467)

Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection Service

How much does a Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Audi e-tron GT Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2022 Audi e-tron GTElectricService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
Show example Audi e-tron GT Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection prices

Depending on the make and model you drive, you might have disc brakes on the front and drum brakes on the rear, or you could have four-wheel disc brakes. These are becoming more and more common today. However, regardless of the configuration, you should not have a loud noise coming from the rear brakes. This indicates that something has gone wrong, and there are several potential culprits.

How this system works:

Your rear brakes work similar to the front brakes. The master cylinder sends pressurized fluid through the brake lines. If you have rear drum brakes, the fluid causes the actuator to push the brake shoes outward, where they press against the inside of the drum. In the case of rear disc brakes, the fluid activates the caliper, which then squeezes the caliper between two brake pads.

This is identical to how your front brakes operate, but the pads are generally smaller than those used on the front. This is because most of the stopping power in your car is generated in the front.

However, your rear brakes are just as important as the front, and if you’re noticing a loud noise from the rear during braking, it could be a number of different things, depending on the type of noise and when it occurs.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Worn Brake Pads: Obviously, the most common potential problem here is worn out rear pads (or shoes if you have drum brakes). If you notice a loud grinding sound, it could be the metal backing plate from the pads making contact with the rotor.

  • Broken or Missing Caliper Bolt: Your calipers are essentially two halves held together with bolts (not the slide pins). If one of the bolts is missing or broken, it’s possible that part of the caliper has popped out and is making contact with your wheel.

  • Contact with the Squealer: Squealers are metal tabs designed to lightly contact the rotor and create a noise that warns you the pads are wearing down. If your pads are nearing the end of their life, it’s possible this is the noise you’re hearing.

  • Parking Brake Shoes Stuck: Your parking brake is located in the rear of the car. In a disc brake setup, there are shoes located inside the inner drum built into the rotor. If the shoes are stuck, it’s possible that the sound you’re hearing is them contacting metal while you’re driving.

  • Wheel Bearing Failure: If the noise you’re hearing is a “howl” and it’s constant, the first thing to suspect would be one of the wheel bearings (whichever side is the loudest while you’re driving).

  • Pads Settling into Place: If the sound you’re hearing is more of a “pop” or a loud click, it might be nothing more than your brake pads being slightly worn and settling into place when you push the brake pedal.

  • Normal Pad Vibration: If you only hear the noise when you’re backing up, it’s possible that it is just a normal vibration caused by the friction material of the pad lightly contacting the rotor’s surface. This is called “resonant frequency”, and can occur with both disc and drum brakes.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office and will inspect your rear brakes. This inspection will include the drums and shoes or the rotors and calipers. It should also include the brake lines and other components. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect your rear brake pads, the rotors, calipers, and the brake lines. It may be necessary to remove one or both rear wheels for a visual inspection. It may also be necessary to test drive the vehicle if the source of the problem is not immediately apparent in order for the mechanic to verify any and all noises.

How important is this service?

The mechanic will visually inspect the rear brakes, as well as other components that might be causing the noise you’re experiencing. It might be necessary for the mechanic to test drive the vehicle in order to duplicate the noise and better diagnose the problem.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Audi mechanics

Real customer reviews from Audi owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(2,467)

Rating Summary
2,288
87
19
12
61
2,288
87
19
12
61

Mark

11 years of experience
349 reviews
Mark
11 years of experience
Audi Q7 V8-4.2L - Brake Pads Replacement (Front) - Saratoga, California
Prompt and provided Services as quoted.

Engel

23 years of experience
5 reviews
Engel
23 years of experience
Audi S7 V8-4.0L Turbo - Pre-purchase Car Inspection - Arlington, Virginia
Fully explained what he saw of the car in PPI and made me feel confident in the health of the vehicle. Responded in timely manner when I messaged him. Great experience all around.

Alexander

6 years of experience
126 reviews
Alexander
6 years of experience
Audi Q7 V6-3.0L Turbo - Oil Change - Dublin, Ohio
Alex is upfront and honest, everything you want in a mechanic. He went above and beyond to complete my repair and explain everything in great detail. I am recommending him to everyone I know.

Chris

22 years of experience
2266 reviews
Chris
22 years of experience
Audi A4 Quattro L4-2.0L Turbo - Battery - Irvine, California
Fix the battery problem.and came early

Excellent Rating

(2,467)

Rating Summary
2,288
87
19
12
61
2,288
87
19
12
61
Number of Audi services completed
27137+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Audi MECHANICS
700+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

A Buyer’s Guide to the 2012 Volkswagen Eos
The The Eos is the practical convertible lover’s dream. With a hard top and four seats, this car breaks tradition by offering luxurious touches at a less-than-luxury price. For those who want an affordable, sporty convertible with a bit more...
Disabled Driver Laws and Permits in Michigan
It It is important that you familiarize yourself with your state’s disability driver laws and permits, even if you are not disabled yourself. Each state has its own unique requirements, and Michigan is not an exception. How do I know...
P2299 OBD-II Trouble Code: Brake Pedal Position / Accelerator Pedal Position Incompatible
P2299 is an OBD-II generic code that is triggered when the engine control module (ECM) (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/what-is-a-vehicle-s-electrical-control-unit) detects that the brake pedal position...

How do you tilt the Head Restraints?

Your car may be equipped with tilting Head Restraints. This provides additional comfort, but it’s not available on all models. If yours is so equipped, here’s how you work them: Make sure the seatback is in the right position for...

My thermostat needle goes to hot, but the car does not get hot. Is it the thermostate?

This can be caused by a number of things such as low coolant levels (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/top-off-coolant), a faulty thermostat (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/thermostat-replacement), or a failing coolant fan switch. As you may know the coolant fan switch helps to maintain the proper coolant temperature...

I have a 2005 Toyota Sienna xle that stalled while driving. For a few days prior I heard a squealing sound coming from the engine

Hi there. The OBD-II trouble code you listed (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p0346-obd-ii-trouble-code-camshaft-position-sensor-a-circuit-range-performance-bank-2-by-valerie-johnston), P0346 is an indication of an issue with the crankshaft position sensor. When this component fails, it will cause the ignition timing system to operate incorrectly, and can be the source...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com