Audi 80 Grinding noise when braking Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(2,438)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(2,438)

Grinding noise when braking Inspection Service

How much does a Grinding noise when braking Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Audi 80 Grinding noise when braking Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1988 Audi 80L4-2.0LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$132.49 - $145.62
1990 Audi 80L4-2.0LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
1991 Audi 80L5-2.3LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
1992 Audi 80L5-2.3LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.48 - $125.60
1989 Audi 80L4-2.0LService typeGrinding noise when braking InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.55 - $125.72
Show example Audi 80 Grinding noise when braking Inspection prices

Today’s drivers are pretty comfortable with modern braking technologies. We’ve become so used to the advanced technology that makes slowing and stopping our cars possible that we take it for granted – at least until something goes wrong. Disc brakes are subject to a number of problems, as well as wear and tear, and if you’re hearing a grinding noise when braking, then you need to take action immediately.

How this system works:

The modern disc brake system is actually relatively simple to understand, although it does require a significant network of components in order to operate. For the purposes of this discussion, we’ll limit the scope to just the components mounted around the wheel hub – the ones that might be responsible for the grinding sound you’re hearing.

There are several components here – brake lines deliver pressurized fluid to the brake caliper, which holds and actuates the brake pads. Brake pads are made with a metal backing plate and a high-friction material on the other side. This material is designed to press up against the surface of the rotor, slowing and stopping the car as the caliper squeezes the rotor between the pads.

Over time, pads wear down. It’s a simple fact of life. You’ll need to replace them periodically, although the frequency of replacement will vary depending on your driving habits, local geography (hills, mountains, etc.) and other factors.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Excessive Pad Wear: The single most common reason to hear a grinding noise when braking is excessive pad wear. Once the material has been worn off the backing plate, you’ll be experiencing “metal on metal”. Part of the brake caliper could also be touching the rotor at this point. Both cause extensive damage – the backing plate will eat into the rotor, causing grooves and serious damage. The caliper will do the same thing, but the rotor will also eat into the metal of the caliper, potentially causing the need for replacement.

  • Foreign Debris Lodged in Brakes: It’s also possible to have foreign debris lodged in the brake system. The most common example would be a rock or piece of gravel caught in the caliper and riding between the caliper and the rotor. This can cause damage to the rotor as well, and you’ll generally hear the sound even when you’re not pressing the brake pedal.

  • Low Quality Brake Pads: If you’ve had your brake pads replaced recently and are now hearing a grinding sound, it could be because low quality pads were used. Semi-metallic pads can sometimes contain hard chunks of metal that will eat into the rotors and cause a grinding sound when applied (always use OEM quality brake pads).

  • Wear Indicator Contacting Rotor: If the sound you’re hearing is more of a squealing than a grinding, chances are good that it is the wear indicator on your pads connecting with the rotor. This comes preinstalled on many brake pads and is designed to warn you that the pad material is getting low and you’ll need to replace them soon.

What to expect:

One of our professional mobile mechanics will visit your home or office to inspect the brakes and determine if the problem is due to wear and tear, or if there is something deeper going wrong, such as the rotor being grooved by the caliper. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect your brake pads, the rotors, calipers, and the brake lines feeding the calipers. It may be necessary to remove one or both front wheels for a visual inspection. It may also be necessary to test drive the vehicle if the source of the problem is not immediately apparent in order for the mechanic to verify the grinding noise.

How important is this service?

If you’re hearing a grinding sound when applying the brakes, there is definitely something that needs to be addressed. It might be something as simple as the wear indicators on the pads connecting with the rotor, or it could be something more serious. If you have worn completely through the pads and your brakes are now “metal on metal”, it’s essential to your safety to replace your pads and have the rotors resurfaced now. In some cases, the damage to the rotor may be severe enough to require replacement.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Audi mechanics

Real customer reviews from Audi owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(2,438)

Rating Summary
2,262
87
19
12
58
2,262
87
19
12
58

Claud

8 years of experience
507 reviews
Claud
8 years of experience
Audi RS5 Sportback V6-2.9L Turbo - Pre-purchase Car Inspection - Troy, Michigan
Very impressed by Claud's work. His report and summary gave me the peace of mind required to make a sound decision. Would recommend his services to friends and family.

Henry

34 years of experience
173 reviews
Henry
34 years of experience
Audi Q5 L4-2.0L Turbo - Brake Rotor/Disc Replacement (Front) - Sewell, New Jersey
Henry was great!

Chris

22 years of experience
2252 reviews
Chris
22 years of experience
Audi S4 V6-3.0L Turbo - Brake Pads Replacement (Rear) - Irvine, California
Chris is always early. He’s the best mechanic.l we have ever used!

Bryan

5 years of experience
64 reviews
Bryan
5 years of experience
Audi A3 Quattro L4-2.0L Turbo - Oil Change - Los Angeles, California
Bryan is great! Super polite, professional, knowledgeable and helpful!

Excellent Rating

(2,438)

Rating Summary
2,262
87
19
12
58
2,262
87
19
12
58
Number of Audi services completed
26818+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Audi MECHANICS
700+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

The Best Used Cars to Buy If You're Towing a Boat
If If you’re towing a boat, the vehicle that you buy is largely going to depend on the size and weight of your boat plus trailer. Most cars, realistically, aren’t cut out for the job. We recommend a pickup truck...
P0002 OBD-II Trouble Code: Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit Range/Performance
P0002 P0002 trouble code definition The P0002 code is associated with the electrical circuit which connects to your fuel pressure regulator. It also may be related to other codes, such as: P0001, P0003, or P0004. What the P0002 code means...
How to Protect Your Car From Rust
Rust Rust on a vehicle not only looks unsightly, but also reduces the value when selling the vehicle or using it as a trade-in to purchase a new car. Once in place, rust eats away at the surrounding metal. Over...

AC blowing hot air in 2006 Mitsubishi Galant

The main causes of an air conditioning system not to work would be low refrigerant, a faulty blend door actuator, or a lack of power to the A/C compressor. My first recommendation would be to have your climate control system...

My transmission won't go in reverse. Our mechanic said the ECM is bad. Would that cause that?

Hello. No, the ECM by itself should not cause a transmission failure. I suspect the low/reverse band has gone out on your transmission. The newer electronic transmissions have the ability to adjust to wear in the various clutches and bands...

I removed the needles in my gauge cluster. Now the fuel and temp shoot up and stay there. My speedometer needle also reads wrong.

For the fuel and temperature gauges check the wiring to the gauges and see if they are connected properly. For the speedometer, the needle maybe in the wrong position and reading incorrectly. When taking off the needles to the gauges,...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com