Acura CL Parking brake is stuck Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(117)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(117)

Parking brake is stuck Inspection Service

How much does a Parking brake is stuck Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Acura CL Parking brake is stuck Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2002 Acura CLV6-3.2LService typeParking brake is stuck InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$132.49 - $145.62
1999 Acura CLL4-2.3LService typeParking brake is stuck InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
1997 Acura CLV6-3.0LService typeParking brake is stuck InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
1999 Acura CLV6-3.0LService typeParking brake is stuck InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.48 - $125.60
1998 Acura CLV6-3.0LService typeParking brake is stuck InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.55 - $125.72
1997 Acura CLL4-2.2LService typeParking brake is stuck InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$112.52 - $125.67
2001 Acura CLV6-3.2LService typeParking brake is stuck InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$117.28 - $130.25
2003 Acura CLV6-3.2LService typeParking brake is stuck InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$117.94 - $131.39
Show example Acura CL Parking brake is stuck Inspection prices

Your parking brake is a valuable component that helps ensure better safety when parked on an incline, and also helps reduce unnecessary loading of the transmission. If you’ve ever parked on a hill and not used the parking brake, you’re familiar with the loud “thunk” and lurch that happens when you crank the car and put it in drive when you’re ready to leave. Engaging the parking brake avoids this, and enhances safety. However, if your parking brake is stuck, the light in your dash will stay on, and you may damage the brake shoes while driving.

How this system works:

Your parking brake is actually very little more than a lever attached to a cable. When you pull the parking brake handle in the cabin, it engages a cable. That cable runs from the parking brake handle under the car and to the back wheels. Pulling up on the handle pulls the cable taut, which engages the parking brake.

The brake itself is nothing more than a pair of small brake shoes mounted inside the drum built into the rear rotors of your car. The shoes press outward on the drum, holding the wheel in place (it’s not as strong as your normal brakes, and generally cannot hold the car by itself on anything more than a very gentle incline).

When you put the parking brake handle down, the cable disengages the parking brake and the shoes retract from against the walls of the drum. This releases the vehicle, allowing you to drive without damaging the parking brake.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Rust and Corrosion: One of the most common problems with parking brakes is corrosion on the cable that leads to the rear brakes. Once the cable begins to rust, it can stick. When this happens, you won’t be able to release the parking brake.

  • Engaged Too Hard: While uncommon, it is possible for the parking brake to stick if you applied it to hard. If you crank back on the handle as hard as possible, you’re overdoing it, and it’s possible for the cable to stretch, the shoes to stick and more.

  • Damaged/Stuck Adjuster Screw: The rear brake shoes are operated by an adjuster screw. If the screw is stuck, corroded or damaged, it will not move and your parking brake will not disengage.

  • Leaving It Engaged for Too Long: Most of us use our parking brake on a relatively limited basis, leaving it engaged overnight at the longest. In some situations, leaving it engaged for a long period (say over the winter in storage) can cause the assembly to freeze and stick.

What to expect:

Our professional mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to inspect the parking brake handle, cable, lever, adjusting screw, shoes and other components in the system. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect all aspects of the parking brake, from the handle to the cable, all the way back to the lever, the spring, the adjusting screw and the shoes. It may be necessary to remove one or both rear wheels. It may also be necessary to disassemble the rear brakes to reach the parking brake components.

How important is this service?

If your parking brake is stuck, you cannot drive the car without causing further damage. It’s highly advised to leave your car parked where it is if you notice that the Parking Brake light stays on after lowering the handle, or feeling resistance when trying to drive (or smelling burned brake material after driving). One of our professional mechanics will be able to diagnose the problem and restore functionality to your parking brake.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Acura mechanics

Real customer reviews from Acura owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(117)

Rating Summary
106
6
2
0
3
106
6
2
0
3

Michael

6 years of experience
142 reviews
Michael
6 years of experience
Acura CL V6-3.2L - Battery - Auburn, Washington
Michael was awesome.

Refugio

17 years of experience
51 reviews
Refugio
17 years of experience
Acura CL V6-3.0L - Starter - San Antonio, Texas
He was swift. Knew his craft and will use him again. I will highly recommend Refugio to any one with car problems. Also the price that was quoted is what I paid no hidden fees or underlined prices.

Juan

29 years of experience
70 reviews
Juan
29 years of experience
Acura CL V6-3.2L - Oil or Fluid is leaking - Los Angeles, California
Juan was running late, but called ahead about the delay, so it was not a problem. Everything went smoothly Thanks

Tien

23 years of experience
903 reviews
Tien
23 years of experience
Acura CL L4-2.3L - 75 Point Safety Inspection - Richmond, California

Excellent Rating

(117)

Rating Summary
106
6
2
0
3
106
6
2
0
3
Number of Acura CL services completed
1287+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Acura MECHANICS
1000+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

How to Clean an EGR Valve
The The EGR valve is the heart of the emissions system on an engine. EGR is an acronym for Exhaust Gas Recirculation, and that is exactly what it does. This wonderful environmentally-friendly device opens up during certain engine conditions and...
The Traveler’s Guide to Driving in Belgium
Belgium Belgium is a beautiful, historic city that has a lot to offer those who vacation there. You may want to spend some time exploring Brussels and visiting places (https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g188634-Activities-Belgium.html) such as the Grand Palace. You may also want to...
P0388 OBD-II Trouble Code: Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit High Input
P0388 means an excessive high volt signal from the crankshaft sensor was detected by the car's computer.

No spark from distributor cap to spark plugs.

With the key in the On position you need to test it to see if you have power on one side of the coil (red wire). When you crank the engine, do you still have power? If you do not...

Heat/AC blower turns off and on

Hi there. Check the switch for any loose wires or shorts from the blower motor switch (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/blower-motor-switch-replacement) to the ignition switch. Check the condition of the wire connections for an corrosion and see if the wires are loose on the...

Coolant leaking from intake manifold

Hello and thanks for contacting YourMechanic. Intake gaskets (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/intake-manifold-gaskets-replacement) will seal, however, it is recommended to add some RTV (room temperature vulcanization) silicone to the gasket to seal it on the heads (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-engine-block-sealer-to-repair-a-head-gasket-leak-by-eduardo-ruelas). I recommend using the blue water resistant...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com