Volvo XC70 Control Arm Assembly Replacement at your home or office.

Our mobile mechanics offer services 7 days a week. Upfront and transparent pricing.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(57)

Included for free with this service

Online Booking

Mechanic comes to you

12-month / 12k-mile warranty

Free 50 point safety inspection

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to your home or office 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Customer Ratings

(57)

Control Arm Assembly Replacement Service

How much does a Control Arm Assembly Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a Volvo XC70 Control Arm Assembly Replacement is $330 with $190 for parts and $140 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2015 Volvo XC70L6-3.2LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$673.16Shop/Dealer Price$806.30 - $1197.62
2013 Volvo XC70L6-3.0L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$816.99Shop/Dealer Price$986.57 - $1491.20
2012 Volvo XC70L6-3.0L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$685.43Shop/Dealer Price$818.68 - $1213.85
2013 Volvo XC70L6-3.2LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$670.83Shop/Dealer Price$803.90 - $1198.92
2014 Volvo XC70L6-3.0L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$816.99Shop/Dealer Price$988.07 - $1493.82
2006 Volvo XC70L5-2.5L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$842.08Shop/Dealer Price$987.05 - $1413.43
2013 Volvo XC70L6-3.0L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$685.43Shop/Dealer Price$818.70 - $1213.88
2016 Volvo XC70L4-2.0L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$670.83Shop/Dealer Price$803.90 - $1198.92
Show example Volvo XC70 Control Arm Assembly Replacement prices

What is a control arm and how does it work?

A control arm is a suspension component, usually made of heavy gauge steel or aluminum, that links the steering knuckle in the front — or axle carrier in the rear — to the frame of the vehicle. Many vehicles have upper and lower control arms. The inboard link(s) of the arm securely bolt to the frame of the vehicle through rubber bushings, while the outboard link of the control arm connects to the steering knuckle through a ball joint; all of which allow the control of the up and down movement of the steering knuckle or axle carrier. This minimizes the transmission of shock and vibration to the vehicle’s body.

When to consider replacing a control arm:

The structural portion of the control arm can last the life of the vehicle — except for cases of corrosion or crash damage. However, the rubber bushings and the ball joint in a control arm have a limited life. A mechanic should investigate if you notice:

  • Wheel alignment difficulties. Should the bushings, or the ball joint, in a control arm be worn, it will be impossible to properly align the vehicle. The worn components, or the entire arm, must be replaced.
  • Vehicle won’t track straight or pulls to one side. A car will not track straight and may require constant steering correction if there is a worn, bent, or loose control arm.
  • Clunking or squeaking noise. A loose control arm, or a control arm with dried out, rotted, or loose bushings, may move enough to cause detectable noise from the suspension as you go over bumps in the road.
  • Vehicle pulls to one side only when braking. Worn bushings or ball joints can allow control arm to shift when braking, causing the vehicle to pull to one side. Although, this could also be caused by brake calipers.

How do mechanics replace a control arm?

  • The vehicle is raised and supported on steel jack stands, and the wheel and tire assembly is removed.
  • Stabilizer bar links are detached from the control arm, if applicable. ABS wiring to the wheel speed sensor, if routed along the arm, is disconnected.
  • Control arm mounting bolts are detached from the frame and from the axle carrier if the control arm is in the rear.
  • For front control arms connected to the steering knuckle via a ball joint, the nut is removed from the ball joint stud and the stud is pushed through the steering knuckle to free the arm.
  • The arm is lowered from the vehicle and examined by the mechanic to confirm that the noise, or other problem, actually originated from a defect in the arm.
  • The new arm is installed using new mounting bolts if required by the service manual. In many cases, the fasteners must be tightened with the vehicle weight on the suspension in order to ensure the bushings are in a neutral, or resting, position.
  • The vehicle is lowered and road tested to confirm the problem is resolved. Replacing a control arm will change the vehicle alignment settings and the mechanic will refer you to a professional alignment shop to have the vehicle alignment set to factory specifications.

Is it safe to drive with a control arm problem?

No. If the car wanders on the road, pulls to one side, or noise from the suspension is loud, you need to schedule repair right away. Should the problem be limited to low levels of noise, such as clunking or squeaking, continued use of the car is reasonable until you can schedule a repair. Should the control arms be damaged as a result of a collision, it would be unsafe to drive the car until it is repaired.

When replacing a control arm keep in mind:

  • The number of control arm types vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the design of the vehicle suspension.
  • Control arms should be replaced in pairs — arms on both sides of a front or rear axle — if the reason for replacement is worn control arm bushings or a worn ball joint.
  • All other suspension components should be inspected when control arms are replaced because looseness, damage, or excessive wear in other parts of the suspension system will make it impossible to perform a wheel alignment after the control arms are replaced.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Volvo mechanics

Real customer reviews from Volvo owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(57)

Rating Summary
56
0
0
0
1
56
0
0
0
1

Pierre

7 years of experience
223 reviews
Pierre
7 years of experience
XC70 2007 - Car is shaking or vibrating - Greenwich, CT
Above and beyond expectations.

Mike

10 years of experience
177 reviews
Mike
10 years of experience
XC70 2008 - Pre-purchase Car Inspection - Raleigh, NC
Mike gave me easy to understand information to make a informed decision to purchase a used car.

Chuy

12 years of experience
300 reviews
Chuy
12 years of experience
XC70 2008 - Cabin Air Filter - Markham, IL
Chuy was fast and efficient!

Theodore

10 years of experience
1656 reviews
Theodore
10 years of experience
XC70 2010 - Car is slow to accelerate - Bellevue, WA
Theodore is very knowledgeable, friendly, explains issue very clearly and even go out of his way to refill the flat tires with no extra charge.

Excellent Rating

(57)

Rating Summary
56
0
0
0
1
56
0
0
0
1
Number of Volvo XC70 services completed
627+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Volvo MECHANICS
600+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

How to Determine the Down Payment on a Car
When When you purchase a new or used car, you are often required to provide a portion of the price of the vehicle up front if you’re financing it. Whether you choose in-house financing at the dealership or find a...
P2513 OBD-II Trouble Code: Event Data Recorder Request Circuit Low
P2513 P2513 code definition The P2513 code relates to a fuel composition sensor circuit malfunction, most commonly stemming from an issue in the operation of the variable cam timing (VCT) solenoid, which changes the timing of the camshaft position to...
2012 Toyota Sienna vs. 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan: Which One Should I Buy?
The battle of the minivans: Toyota Sienna versus the Dodge Grand Caravan. Both of these comfy people-movers provide options galore, and the minivan is meant to get everyone where they need to go safely and quickly, at a reasonable cost...

Intermittent issue where after a stop car is stuck in first, speedometer at zero. Had output speed sensor changed, no change.

Hello there, a few possible faults could cause the vehicle to become stuck in first. The most common would be low fluid level, shift solenoid, transmission range sensor, or a transmission mechanical fault. I'd suggest getting this looked at by...

Check engine light and vsc track off light is on.

Hi there. The vsc track off light (traction control light) is on for the computer has turned off the traction control for something stopped working. Check the wheel speed sensors and the wiring to them. A dirty wheel speed sensor...

I have replaced the break pads, calipers, and rotors on my 2003 ford explorer. My breaks keep locking up. I have also replaced the master cylinder.

Check the combination valve on the brake system. If the valve is sticking, then the fluid could be getting trapped and not returning. To check this valve, loosen the brake line on the back side of the valve (the side...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com