Volvo V60 Wheel Bearings Replacement at your home or office.

Our mobile mechanics offer services 7 days a week. Upfront and transparent pricing.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

customer ratings

(7)

Included for free with this service

Online Booking

Mechanic comes to you

12-month / 12k-mile warranty

Free 50 point safety inspection

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to your home or office 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

customer ratings

(7)

Wheel Bearings Replacement Estimate for Volvo V60

Volvo V60 Wheel Bearings Replacement costs $303 on average.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2018 Volvo V60L4-2.0L TurboService typeWheel Bearings - Passenger Side Rear ReplacementEstimate$453.69Shop/Dealer Price$556.06 - $822.24
2018 Volvo V60L4-2.0L TurboService typeWheel Bearings - Driver Side Rear ReplacementEstimate$440.69Shop/Dealer Price$541.01 - $805.64
2015 Volvo V60L5-2.5L TurboService typeWheel Bearings - Passenger Side Front ReplacementEstimate$462.44Shop/Dealer Price$565.93 - $831.67
2015 Volvo V60L6-3.0L TurboService typeWheel Bearings - Passenger Side Rear ReplacementEstimate$416.69Shop/Dealer Price$513.26 - $775.08
2015 Volvo V60L4-2.0L TurboService typeWheel Bearings - Driver Side Rear ReplacementEstimate$553.95Shop/Dealer Price$684.87 - $1049.67
2015 Volvo V60L5-2.5L TurboService typeWheel Bearings - Driver Side Rear ReplacementEstimate$553.95Shop/Dealer Price$684.86 - $1049.64
2018 Volvo V60L4-2.0L TurboService typeWheel Bearings - Driver Side Front ReplacementEstimate$427.95Shop/Dealer Price$525.07 - $786.05
2016 Volvo V60L6-3.0L TurboService typeWheel Bearings - Passenger Side Rear ReplacementEstimate$421.69Shop/Dealer Price$518.52 - $780.54
Show example Volvo V60 Wheel Bearings Replacement prices

Wheel Bearings Replacement Service

What are wheel bearings and how do they work?

A wheel bearing assembly consists of rolling elements, such as hardened steel ball bearings or roller bearings, that roll on and around hardened steel bearing races. The wheel bearings support the front and rear axle, and all the weight of your car. Wheel bearings are made with a high-precision technique using extremely hard steel in order to withstand all the normal impacts that occur to the wheel and tire assembly as you drive along the road.

When to replace wheel bearings?

  • Growling or grinding noise from a wheel. Failed or failing wheel bearings make a very characteristic growling noise which will grow louder as the bearing wear progresses. If you believe the wheel bearing noise is coming from one side of the car, you can self-diagnosis your wheel bearing as you drive the car by loading and unloading vehicle weight You can do this by “swerving” from side-to-side. For example, if the noise markedly increases when you swerve to left, which shifts the vehicle’s weight to the right, then it often indicates the wheel bearing on the right is failing.

  • Axial or radial play in the wheel or wheel hub. Should the wheel hub move up and down or in and out, the bearing may be worn.

  • Vibration in the steering wheel or vehicle body and/or wandering. Vibration and lack of directional stability could be consequences of loose or worn out wheel bearings.

  • Tire and wheel assembly does not turn smoothly. With the wheel jacked up, and the car not in gear, the wheel should rotate smoothly. Rough or inconsistent movement, which is often accompanied by noise, can signify damaged bearings. Be sure the brakes are not dragging as you perform this check.

How do mechanics replace wheel bearings?

The complexity of wheel bearing replacement varies greatly depending on the vehicle make, model, year, the wheel position (front versus rear), and the drive type (AWD versus FWD):

  • On vehicles with unitized wheel bearing/hub assemblies, the brake rotor and caliper are removed.
  • The large axle nut is removed, the axle is pushed back through the center of the unitized hub assembly, and three (or more) bolts holding the hub assembly to the steering knuckle are removed.
  • The hub assembly is then removed from the knuckle. On installation of the new hub assembly to the knuckle, the bolts are torqued to the factory specification. In many cases, it is required to discard the old axle nut and replace with a new one. Special attention must be given to tightening the axle nut to the exact factory specification because over or under-tightening can damage the newly installed bearing. All YourMechanic professionals use calibrated torque wrenches on these critical fasteners.
  • Finally, the brake rotor and brake caliper are re-attached, the wheel installed and the car is road tested.
  • On vehicles where the wheel bearing is pressed into a cavity within the steering knuckle, the steering knuckle must be removed from the vehicle in order to press out the old bearing and press in the new bearing.
  • On some vehicles, the wheel bearing is pressed onto an axle shaft and thus the axle must be extracted from the axle carrier. This will apply to certain trucks.

Is it safe to drive with a wheel bearing problem?

No. Wheel bearing failure is usually gradual, although in some cases it starts immediately after the dramatic impact of the wheel and tire assembly with a deep pothole. Wheel bearings can sometimes make noise for quite some time before you experience a catastrophic failure that would result in complete separation of the wheel and tire assembly from the axle. Generally, the risk of sudden failure increases with the noise level. But strictly speaking, once the bearing has started to fail it is impossible to predict exactly when it will fail completely. So it should not continue to be driven. Were a failing bearing to seize or break while you are moving, you could experience loss of control of the vehicle. Once you receive a conclusive diagnostic that a wheel bearing has failed, replace the bearing promptly.

When replacing wheel bearings, keep in mind:

  • If the car has a substantial number of miles on the failed bearing (100,000 miles or more), it is a good idea to replace both bearings (driver and passenger) on the axle at the same time.
  • Wheel bearing noise can be confused with tire noise from defective tires. In difficult cases, a mechanic will apply remote wireless microphones at all 4 wheel positions, and then drive the car while listening to a remote receiver, switching between wheel positions to pinpoint the location of the failed bearing.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Volvo mechanics

Real customer reviews from Volvo owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(7)

Rating Summary
7
0
0
0
0
7
0
0
0
0

Excellent Rating

(7)

Rating Summary
7
0
0
0
0
7
0
0
0
0
Number of Volvo V60 services completed
77+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Volvo MECHANICS
600+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

OBD-II Trouble Code P0688: ECM/PCM Power Relay Sense Circuit/Open
P0688 means there is an output circuit issue in the power relay sense circuit, likely due to a damaged or defective ECM relay or faulty wiring.
P0710 OBD-II Trouble Code: Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0710 means that your transmission is overheating, or that the sensor is faulty. This could be due to leaking, low, or dirty fluid, or a bad sensor.
How to Replace a Brake Booster Vacuum Sensor
The brake booster vacuum pressure sensor is a vital part of power brake operation. A Check Engine Light or a hard brake pedal are signs of failure.

Replaced egr valve and drive cycle for egr and evap won't complete

Hi Jeremy. Thanks for the question today. The type of digital scanner used can significantly impact the ability to clear codes. So, if you're using a generic code reader that does not have Chevrolet-specific software to access all OBD-II generic...

Coolant level dropping after a short time

A cooling system that keeps getting low on coolant in a short amount of time has an active leak in the system. If the leak cannot be found externally then the leak will be internal to the engine. You will...

Wrong starter motor fitted by a garage

If you have the starter motor (the wrong one), the easiest way to prove your case is to get from the manufacturer, or re-manufacturer, the cataloging information. In other words, the "part" should have a part number and that part...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com