Suzuki Kizashi Control Arm Assembly Replacement at your home or office.

Our mobile mechanics offer services 7 days a week. Upfront and transparent pricing.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(13)

Included for free with this service

Online Booking

Mechanic comes to you

12-month / 12k-mile warranty

Free 50 point safety inspection

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to your home or office 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Customer Ratings

(13)

Control Arm Assembly Replacement Service

How much does a Control Arm Assembly Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a Suzuki Kizashi Control Arm Assembly Replacement is $554 with $274 for parts and $280 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2011 Suzuki KizashiL4-2.4LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$1106.96Shop/Dealer Price$1257.16 - $1678.60
2013 Suzuki KizashiL4-2.4LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$1074.52Shop/Dealer Price$1218.36 - $1635.04
2010 Suzuki KizashiL4-2.4LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$1074.52Shop/Dealer Price$1218.46 - $1635.20
2012 Suzuki KizashiL4-2.4LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$1195.90Shop/Dealer Price$1370.18 - $1877.95
2012 Suzuki KizashiL4-2.4LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$1195.90Shop/Dealer Price$1375.48 - $1887.23
2011 Suzuki KizashiL4-2.4LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$1195.90Shop/Dealer Price$1370.68 - $1878.83
2011 Suzuki KizashiL4-2.4LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$1195.90Shop/Dealer Price$1370.23 - $1878.05
2013 Suzuki KizashiL4-2.4LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$1195.90Shop/Dealer Price$1370.18 - $1877.95
Show example Suzuki Kizashi Control Arm Assembly Replacement prices

What is a control arm and how does it work?

A control arm is a suspension component, usually made of heavy gauge steel or aluminum, that links the steering knuckle in the front — or axle carrier in the rear — to the frame of the vehicle. Many vehicles have upper and lower control arms. The inboard link(s) of the arm securely bolt to the frame of the vehicle through rubber bushings, while the outboard link of the control arm connects to the steering knuckle through a ball joint; all of which allow the control of the up and down movement of the steering knuckle or axle carrier. This minimizes the transmission of shock and vibration to the vehicle’s body.

When to consider replacing a control arm:

The structural portion of the control arm can last the life of the vehicle — except for cases of corrosion or crash damage. However, the rubber bushings and the ball joint in a control arm have a limited life. A mechanic should investigate if you notice:

  • Wheel alignment difficulties. Should the bushings, or the ball joint, in a control arm be worn, it will be impossible to properly align the vehicle. The worn components, or the entire arm, must be replaced.
  • Vehicle won’t track straight or pulls to one side. A car will not track straight and may require constant steering correction if there is a worn, bent, or loose control arm.
  • Clunking or squeaking noise. A loose control arm, or a control arm with dried out, rotted, or loose bushings, may move enough to cause detectable noise from the suspension as you go over bumps in the road.
  • Vehicle pulls to one side only when braking. Worn bushings or ball joints can allow control arm to shift when braking, causing the vehicle to pull to one side. Although, this could also be caused by brake calipers.

How do mechanics replace a control arm?

  • The vehicle is raised and supported on steel jack stands, and the wheel and tire assembly is removed.
  • Stabilizer bar links are detached from the control arm, if applicable. ABS wiring to the wheel speed sensor, if routed along the arm, is disconnected.
  • Control arm mounting bolts are detached from the frame and from the axle carrier if the control arm is in the rear.
  • For front control arms connected to the steering knuckle via a ball joint, the nut is removed from the ball joint stud and the stud is pushed through the steering knuckle to free the arm.
  • The arm is lowered from the vehicle and examined by the mechanic to confirm that the noise, or other problem, actually originated from a defect in the arm.
  • The new arm is installed using new mounting bolts if required by the service manual. In many cases, the fasteners must be tightened with the vehicle weight on the suspension in order to ensure the bushings are in a neutral, or resting, position.
  • The vehicle is lowered and road tested to confirm the problem is resolved. Replacing a control arm will change the vehicle alignment settings and the mechanic will refer you to a professional alignment shop to have the vehicle alignment set to factory specifications.

Is it safe to drive with a control arm problem?

No. If the car wanders on the road, pulls to one side, or noise from the suspension is loud, you need to schedule repair right away. Should the problem be limited to low levels of noise, such as clunking or squeaking, continued use of the car is reasonable until you can schedule a repair. Should the control arms be damaged as a result of a collision, it would be unsafe to drive the car until it is repaired.

When replacing a control arm keep in mind:

  • The number of control arm types vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the design of the vehicle suspension.
  • Control arms should be replaced in pairs — arms on both sides of a front or rear axle — if the reason for replacement is worn control arm bushings or a worn ball joint.
  • All other suspension components should be inspected when control arms are replaced because looseness, damage, or excessive wear in other parts of the suspension system will make it impossible to perform a wheel alignment after the control arms are replaced.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Suzuki mechanics

Real customer reviews from Suzuki owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(13)

Rating Summary
12
1
0
0
0
12
1
0
0
0

Nicholas

12 years of experience
691 reviews
Nicholas
12 years of experience
Suzuki Kizashi L4-2.4L - Oil Change - Raleigh, North Carolina
Very professional. This will be the second time that Nicholas provided an excellent, prompt and efficient service to my vehicles.

Theodore

17 years of experience
1794 reviews
Theodore
17 years of experience
Suzuki Kizashi L4-2.4L - Oil Change - Everett, Washington
Had Theo work on my car twice now and as always, an amazing job!

Nate

22 years of experience
90 reviews
Nate
22 years of experience
Suzuki Kizashi L4-2.4L - Oil Change - Atlanta, Georgia

William

35 years of experience
731 reviews
William
35 years of experience
Suzuki Kizashi L4-2.4L - Check Engine Light is on Inspection - Phoenix, Arizona
Very friendly and courteous

Excellent Rating

(13)

Rating Summary
12
1
0
0
0
12
1
0
0
0
Number of Suzuki Kizashi services completed
143+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Suzuki MECHANICS
300+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

How to Transfer a Car Title in Texas
Whenever Whenever there is a change of vehicle ownership in Texas, the title must be transferred from the previous owner’s name to that of the current owner. This applies to the buying and selling process, but also to giving a...
How Long Does an Ignition Lock Cylinder Last?
For For most car owners, getting in and cranking their vehicle up is not something that they think about. In order for a car to crank properly, a number of different components will have to work together. Among the most...
P2324 OBD-II Trouble Code: Ignition Coil I Primary Control Circuit Low
P2324 P2324 code definition Ignition Coil I Primary Control Circuit Low What the P2324 code means P2324 is an OBD-II generic code for the Ignition Coil I Primary Control Circuit Low to the Engine Control Module (ECM). This means the...

shimmy in steering wheel

Hello. This is caused by either a bent wheel or a wheel balance issue. Due to the size and style of these tires and wheels they need to be road force balanced. This will allow for tire to wheel matching...

Car won't start and won't even crank when I turn the key.

You will need to see if you can put a socket on the front crankshaft pulley bolt and turn the motor by hand to see if the engine is free to turn over. Check the oil to see if it...

Secondary coil replacement for a 2007 ES 350 Lexus

Hi there. That code is set when the primary or secondary circuit for the specified coil has failed. If you are not experiencing any drivability concerns, then it is most likely that the circuit has not failed to the point...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com