Suzuki Esteem Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(14)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(14)

Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection Service

How much does a Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Suzuki Esteem Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection is $105 with $0 for parts and $105 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2001 Suzuki EsteemL4-1.6LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$124.99Shop/Dealer Price$133.39 - $139.69
2002 Suzuki EsteemL4-1.8LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$113.41 - $119.72
2001 Suzuki EsteemL4-1.8LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$113.41 - $119.72
2000 Suzuki EsteemL4-1.8LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$113.39 - $119.68
1998 Suzuki EsteemL4-1.6LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$113.42 - $119.75
1996 Suzuki EsteemL4-1.6LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$104.99Shop/Dealer Price$113.41 - $119.72
2000 Suzuki EsteemL4-1.6LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$124.99Shop/Dealer Price$130.87 - $135.28
1995 Suzuki EsteemL4-1.6LService typeLoud noise is coming from rear brakes InspectionEstimate$124.99Shop/Dealer Price$131.24 - $135.94
Show example Suzuki Esteem Loud noise is coming from rear brakes Inspection prices

Depending on the make and model you drive, you might have disc brakes on the front and drum brakes on the rear, or you could have four-wheel disc brakes. These are becoming more and more common today. However, regardless of the configuration, you should not have a loud noise coming from the rear brakes. This indicates that something has gone wrong, and there are several potential culprits.

How this system works:

Your rear brakes work similar to the front brakes. The master cylinder sends pressurized fluid through the brake lines. If you have rear drum brakes, the fluid causes the actuator to push the brake shoes outward, where they press against the inside of the drum. In the case of rear disc brakes, the fluid activates the caliper, which then squeezes the caliper between two brake pads.

This is identical to how your front brakes operate, but the pads are generally smaller than those used on the front. This is because most of the stopping power in your car is generated in the front.

However, your rear brakes are just as important as the front, and if you’re noticing a loud noise from the rear during braking, it could be a number of different things, depending on the type of noise and when it occurs.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Worn Brake Pads: Obviously, the most common potential problem here is worn out rear pads (or shoes if you have drum brakes). If you notice a loud grinding sound, it could be the metal backing plate from the pads making contact with the rotor.

  • Broken or Missing Caliper Bolt: Your calipers are essentially two halves held together with bolts (not the slide pins). If one of the bolts is missing or broken, it’s possible that part of the caliper has popped out and is making contact with your wheel.

  • Contact with the Squealer: Squealers are metal tabs designed to lightly contact the rotor and create a noise that warns you the pads are wearing down. If your pads are nearing the end of their life, it’s possible this is the noise you’re hearing.

  • Parking Brake Shoes Stuck: Your parking brake is located in the rear of the car. In a disc brake setup, there are shoes located inside the inner drum built into the rotor. If the shoes are stuck, it’s possible that the sound you’re hearing is them contacting metal while you’re driving.

  • Wheel Bearing Failure: If the noise you’re hearing is a “howl” and it’s constant, the first thing to suspect would be one of the wheel bearings (whichever side is the loudest while you’re driving).

  • Pads Settling into Place: If the sound you’re hearing is more of a “pop” or a loud click, it might be nothing more than your brake pads being slightly worn and settling into place when you push the brake pedal.

  • Normal Pad Vibration: If you only hear the noise when you’re backing up, it’s possible that it is just a normal vibration caused by the friction material of the pad lightly contacting the rotor’s surface. This is called “resonant frequency”, and can occur with both disc and drum brakes.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office and will inspect your rear brakes. This inspection will include the drums and shoes or the rotors and calipers. It should also include the brake lines and other components. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect your rear brake pads, the rotors, calipers, and the brake lines. It may be necessary to remove one or both rear wheels for a visual inspection. It may also be necessary to test drive the vehicle if the source of the problem is not immediately apparent in order for the mechanic to verify any and all noises.

How important is this service?

The mechanic will visually inspect the rear brakes, as well as other components that might be causing the noise you’re experiencing. It might be necessary for the mechanic to test drive the vehicle in order to duplicate the noise and better diagnose the problem.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Suzuki mechanics

Real customer reviews from Suzuki owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(14)

Rating Summary
13
1
0
0
0
13
1
0
0
0

Matthew

13 years of experience
183 reviews
Matthew
13 years of experience
Suzuki Esteem L4-1.8L - Car is not starting - Indianapolis, Indiana
Very professional. Quick and reliable

Chris

17 years of experience
340 reviews
Chris
17 years of experience
Suzuki Esteem L4-1.6L - Exterior Door Handle Replacement (Driver Side Front) - San Diego, California
He’s very willing to update appointment time to be workable for both parties. He came to fix my car handle as booked. He found another problem, but he told me how to fix it in a cost-effective way for a future appointment.

Ralph

24 years of experience
34 reviews
Ralph
24 years of experience
Suzuki Esteem L4-1.8L - Throttle Control Cable - Los Angeles, California
Arrived early, great communication, knowledgeable, and did the job quickly. Awesome!

Nicholas

22 years of experience
354 reviews
Nicholas
22 years of experience
Suzuki Esteem L4-1.8L - Car does not shift from park to drive - Denver, Colorado
Above and beyond. Helped me to book my appt after I chose the wrong service, gave a detailed report that went far beyond what I've ever experienced or expected and I'll definitely have him back for future repairs!

Excellent Rating

(14)

Rating Summary
13
1
0
0
0
13
1
0
0
0
Number of Suzuki Esteem services completed
154+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Suzuki MECHANICS
300+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

5 Common Reasons Why Your Car Door Isn’t Locking Properly
Are your power locks keeping you from getting into your car, or locking it when you leave? You need to know what’s...
The Traveler’s Guide to Driving in Singapore
Singapore Singapore is a vacation destination (https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g294265-Activities-Singapore.html) that has something for everyone to enjoy. You can visit the Singapore Zoo, or take a tour of the Chinatown areas. You might want to see what’s happening at Universal Studios Singapore, visit...
P3418 OBD-II Trouble Code: Cylinder 3 Deactivation/Intake Valve Control Performance
What What the P3418 code means This code indicates that there is a problem with your intake valve on cylinder number 3. Your vehicle’s control module detects that the measured values from the TP sensor, MAP sensor, and MAF sensor...

Hear engine noise

Hi there. I believe with those lights illuminated, that the engine lost oil pressure. The car is right in telling you to turn off the engine. Major engine and turbo damage can happen very quickly with low or no oil...

Cylinder 2 Misfire, and water contamination in the fuel.

Hello. If your fuel was recently contaminated with water then that is likely the reason behind the cylinder 2 misfire. As the fuel travels to all of the cylinders, this leaves them all susceptible to misfires, as well as the...

My service charging system battery light is on after replacing my alternator with a brand new one. It is not charging my battery.

Hello, thank you for writing in. Several things may be going on. The installation of the new alternator needs to be verified, focusing on the electrical connections and the drive belt. Make sure the connections are clean, dry, and tight....

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com