Subaru Loyale Parking brake is stuck Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(2,293)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(2,293)

Parking brake is stuck Inspection Service

How much does a Parking brake is stuck Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Subaru Loyale Parking brake is stuck Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1993 Subaru LoyaleH4-1.8LService typeParking brake is stuck InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
1992 Subaru LoyaleH4-1.8LService typeParking brake is stuck InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1990 Subaru LoyaleH4-1.8L TurboService typeParking brake is stuck InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1994 Subaru LoyaleH4-1.8LService typeParking brake is stuck InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
1990 Subaru LoyaleH4-1.8LService typeParking brake is stuck InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
1991 Subaru LoyaleH4-1.8LService typeParking brake is stuck InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
Show example Subaru Loyale Parking brake is stuck Inspection prices

Your parking brake is a valuable component that helps ensure better safety when parked on an incline, and also helps reduce unnecessary loading of the transmission. If you’ve ever parked on a hill and not used the parking brake, you’re familiar with the loud “thunk” and lurch that happens when you crank the car and put it in drive when you’re ready to leave. Engaging the parking brake avoids this, and enhances safety. However, if your parking brake is stuck, the light in your dash will stay on, and you may damage the brake shoes while driving.

How this system works:

Your parking brake is actually very little more than a lever attached to a cable. When you pull the parking brake handle in the cabin, it engages a cable. That cable runs from the parking brake handle under the car and to the back wheels. Pulling up on the handle pulls the cable taut, which engages the parking brake.

The brake itself is nothing more than a pair of small brake shoes mounted inside the drum built into the rear rotors of your car. The shoes press outward on the drum, holding the wheel in place (it’s not as strong as your normal brakes, and generally cannot hold the car by itself on anything more than a very gentle incline).

When you put the parking brake handle down, the cable disengages the parking brake and the shoes retract from against the walls of the drum. This releases the vehicle, allowing you to drive without damaging the parking brake.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Rust and Corrosion: One of the most common problems with parking brakes is corrosion on the cable that leads to the rear brakes. Once the cable begins to rust, it can stick. When this happens, you won’t be able to release the parking brake.

  • Engaged Too Hard: While uncommon, it is possible for the parking brake to stick if you applied it to hard. If you crank back on the handle as hard as possible, you’re overdoing it, and it’s possible for the cable to stretch, the shoes to stick and more.

  • Damaged/Stuck Adjuster Screw: The rear brake shoes are operated by an adjuster screw. If the screw is stuck, corroded or damaged, it will not move and your parking brake will not disengage.

  • Leaving It Engaged for Too Long: Most of us use our parking brake on a relatively limited basis, leaving it engaged overnight at the longest. In some situations, leaving it engaged for a long period (say over the winter in storage) can cause the assembly to freeze and stick.

What to expect:

Our professional mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to inspect the parking brake handle, cable, lever, adjusting screw, shoes and other components in the system. The mechanic will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will inspect all aspects of the parking brake, from the handle to the cable, all the way back to the lever, the spring, the adjusting screw and the shoes. It may be necessary to remove one or both rear wheels. It may also be necessary to disassemble the rear brakes to reach the parking brake components.

How important is this service?

If your parking brake is stuck, you cannot drive the car without causing further damage. It’s highly advised to leave your car parked where it is if you notice that the Parking Brake light stays on after lowering the handle, or feeling resistance when trying to drive (or smelling burned brake material after driving). One of our professional mechanics will be able to diagnose the problem and restore functionality to your parking brake.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Subaru mechanics

Real customer reviews from Subaru owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(2,293)

Rating Summary
2,185
56
15
10
27
2,185
56
15
10
27

Brian

13 years of experience
96 reviews
Brian
13 years of experience
Subaru Forester H4-2.5L - Check Engine Light is on - Pflugerville, Texas
Arrived early, knew what he was talking about., and found issues and recommended fixes quickly and accurately.

Deane

11 years of experience
340 reviews
Deane
11 years of experience
Subaru Forester H4-2.5L - Axle / CV Shaft Assembly Replacement (Driver Side Front) - La Jolla, California
Deane quickly replaced my front drive axle at almost no hassle to me.

Chet

41 years of experience
493 reviews
Chet
41 years of experience
Subaru Outback H4-2.5L Turbo - Steering Rack/Gearbox Replacement - La Mesa, California
Took my outback to a subaru dealership and was told my CJ boots were leaking and needed replaced. Chet inspected the CV boots and reported that it was the rack and pinion assy that was leaking and not the CV boot assy. He saved me $$$ and repaired what was needed. I just found my mechanic!

Cesar

9 years of experience
292 reviews
Cesar
9 years of experience
Subaru Forester H4-2.5L - Valve Cover Gasket - Seattle, Washington
Timely and professional.

Excellent Rating

(2,293)

Rating Summary
2,185
56
15
10
27
2,185
56
15
10
27
Number of Subaru services completed
25223+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Subaru MECHANICS
700+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

Cell Phones and Texting: Distracted Driving Laws in North Dakota
North North Dakota defines distracted driving as any time the driver engages in an activity that sidetracks their attention from the task of operating a vehicle. The three main types of distractions are visual, manual, and cognitive. The following are...
The Traveler’s Guide to Driving in Hungary
Hungary Hungary has a beautiful landscape, some amazing architecture, and plenty of attractions (http://www.lonelyplanet.com/hungary/things-to-do) to keep visitors wanting to keep returning. Some of the places that you may want to visit on your vacation include the Benedictine Abbey Church in...
P2617 OBD-II Trouble Code: Crank Position Signal Output Circuit Open
P2617 P2617 code definition Crank Position Signal Output Circuit Open What the P2617 code means P2617 is an OBD-II generic code for the engine control module (ECM) detecting an open or short circuit in the crank position sensor signal wire...

Car died after jerking.

This car and engine combination has had multiple problems that could be the cause of your stalling. The fuel pump, crank sensor, engine control module, coil pack and ignition module. All these could be the cause of a stall when...

How do I turn the remote start system on or off?

The remote start system allows you to turn on your engine from outside the car, with just the push of a button. This system can be turned off if you don’t want it to be usable. To turn on or...

Replacing a hub bearing

Each front wheel has a unitized hub/bearing assembly that is bolted onto the steering knuckle. To get to it you have to remove the brake caliper, torque plate, and drive axle. Unless you have a high capacity (250 foot pounds)...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com