Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 2500 Control Arm Assembly Replacement at your home or office.

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Control Arm Assembly Replacement Service

How much does a Control Arm Assembly Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 2500 Control Arm Assembly Replacement is $410 with $296 for parts and $114 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2016 Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 2500L4-2.1L Turbo DieselService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$1016.98Shop/Dealer Price$1250.99 - $1882.12
2017 Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 2500V6-3.0L Turbo DieselService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$961.98Shop/Dealer Price$1180.51 - $1800.04
2014 Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 2500L4-2.1L Turbo DieselService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$1284.95Shop/Dealer Price$1575.10 - $2248.34
2018 Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 2500V6-3.0L Turbo DieselService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$923.99Shop/Dealer Price$1138.48 - $1754.98
2013 Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 2500V6-3.0L Turbo DieselService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$1018.98Shop/Dealer Price$1260.11 - $1896.58
2018 Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 2500V6-3.0L Turbo DieselService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$923.99Shop/Dealer Price$1138.51 - $1755.02
2014 Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 2500V6-3.0L Turbo DieselService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$1309.95Shop/Dealer Price$1598.91 - $2271.26
2014 Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 2500V6-3.0L Turbo DieselService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$1089.97Shop/Dealer Price$1342.72 - $1987.90
Show example Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 2500 Control Arm Assembly Replacement prices

What is a control arm and how does it work?

A control arm is a suspension component, usually made of heavy gauge steel or aluminum, that links the steering knuckle in the front — or axle carrier in the rear — to the frame of the vehicle. Many vehicles have upper and lower control arms. The inboard link(s) of the arm securely bolt to the frame of the vehicle through rubber bushings, while the outboard link of the control arm connects to the steering knuckle through a ball joint; all of which allow the control of the up and down movement of the steering knuckle or axle carrier. This minimizes the transmission of shock and vibration to the vehicle’s body.

When to consider replacing a control arm:

The structural portion of the control arm can last the life of the vehicle — except for cases of corrosion or crash damage. However, the rubber bushings and the ball joint in a control arm have a limited life. A mechanic should investigate if you notice:

  • Wheel alignment difficulties. Should the bushings, or the ball joint, in a control arm be worn, it will be impossible to properly align the vehicle. The worn components, or the entire arm, must be replaced.
  • Vehicle won’t track straight or pulls to one side. A car will not track straight and may require constant steering correction if there is a worn, bent, or loose control arm.
  • Clunking or squeaking noise. A loose control arm, or a control arm with dried out, rotted, or loose bushings, may move enough to cause detectable noise from the suspension as you go over bumps in the road.
  • Vehicle pulls to one side only when braking. Worn bushings or ball joints can allow control arm to shift when braking, causing the vehicle to pull to one side. Although, this could also be caused by brake calipers.

How do mechanics replace a control arm?

  • The vehicle is raised and supported on steel jack stands, and the wheel and tire assembly is removed.
  • Stabilizer bar links are detached from the control arm, if applicable. ABS wiring to the wheel speed sensor, if routed along the arm, is disconnected.
  • Control arm mounting bolts are detached from the frame and from the axle carrier if the control arm is in the rear.
  • For front control arms connected to the steering knuckle via a ball joint, the nut is removed from the ball joint stud and the stud is pushed through the steering knuckle to free the arm.
  • The arm is lowered from the vehicle and examined by the mechanic to confirm that the noise, or other problem, actually originated from a defect in the arm.
  • The new arm is installed using new mounting bolts if required by the service manual. In many cases, the fasteners must be tightened with the vehicle weight on the suspension in order to ensure the bushings are in a neutral, or resting, position.
  • The vehicle is lowered and road tested to confirm the problem is resolved. Replacing a control arm will change the vehicle alignment settings and the mechanic will refer you to a professional alignment shop to have the vehicle alignment set to factory specifications.

Is it safe to drive with a control arm problem?

No. If the car wanders on the road, pulls to one side, or noise from the suspension is loud, you need to schedule repair right away. Should the problem be limited to low levels of noise, such as clunking or squeaking, continued use of the car is reasonable until you can schedule a repair. Should the control arms be damaged as a result of a collision, it would be unsafe to drive the car until it is repaired.

When replacing a control arm keep in mind:

  • The number of control arm types vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the design of the vehicle suspension.
  • Control arms should be replaced in pairs — arms on both sides of a front or rear axle — if the reason for replacement is worn control arm bushings or a worn ball joint.
  • All other suspension components should be inspected when control arms are replaced because looseness, damage, or excessive wear in other parts of the suspension system will make it impossible to perform a wheel alignment after the control arms are replaced.

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Jose

10 years of experience
285 reviews
Jose
10 years of experience
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 2500 V6-3.0L Turbo Diesel - Car is not starting - Largo, Florida
Great

Luis

18 years of experience
320 reviews
Luis
18 years of experience
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 2500 V6-3.0L Turbo Diesel - Pre-purchase Car Inspection - Irvington, New Jersey
Great report. Great service. I enjoyed Luis.

Tinashe

13 years of experience
605 reviews
Tinashe
13 years of experience
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 2500 V6-3.0L Turbo Diesel - Alternator - Acworth, Georgia
Tinashe is an okay guy and mistakes happen. The alternator supplied by yourmechanic on the first day was under powered compared to the unit that was pulled out and faulty. I caught this before Tinashe installed the part. The proper alternator usually costs double than the one provided but their part supplier charged them three times, again compared to local suppliers, who may have sourced the part but was part of the yourmechanic eco-chain. As part of practice in the parts industry, Tinashe wanted to take the damaged part back, which I declined because I paid a third more than I should have and returning the part would be the icing on their cake. Again Tinashe is an okay guy. We both called customer service who did not pick up. It did that three days to get this done. Day 1 was canceled by another mechanic, due to a family emergency, Tinashe was provided with the wrong part for day 2 and the install was complete on day 3. I would not recommend Your Mechanic to others in the future.

Deane

11 years of experience
340 reviews
Deane
11 years of experience
Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 2500 L4-2.1L Turbo Diesel - Oil Change - Carlsbad, California
Deane is great. He arrived early and did a great job at communicating and servicing. He has worked on our cars before. Always nice to have him back!

Excellent Rating

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Rating Summary
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