Jeep Cherokee Brake Master Cylinder Replacement Costs

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

Included for free with this service

Online Booking

Mechanic comes to you

12-month / 12k-mile warranty

Free 50 point safety inspection

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to your home or office 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

See availability

Customer Ratings

Brake Master Cylinder Replacement Service

How much does a Brake Master Cylinder Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a Jeep Cherokee Brake Master Cylinder Replacement is $231 with $91 for parts and $140 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

Car	Service	Estimate	Shop/Dealer Price
1999 Jeep CherokeeL4-2.5L	Service typeBrake Master Cylinder Replacement	Estimate$511.50	Shop/Dealer Price$593.68 - $829.69
2017 Jeep CherokeeL4-2.4L	Service typeBrake Master Cylinder Replacement	Estimate$585.77	Shop/Dealer Price$697.55 - $1028.76
2000 Jeep CherokeeL4-2.5L	Service typeBrake Master Cylinder Replacement	Estimate$499.79	Shop/Dealer Price$579.70 - $814.02
1994 Jeep CherokeeL4-2.5L	Service typeBrake Master Cylinder Replacement	Estimate$328.91	Shop/Dealer Price$376.50 - $515.08
1990 Jeep CherokeeL6-4.0L	Service typeBrake Master Cylinder Replacement	Estimate$328.91	Shop/Dealer Price$377.97 - $517.66
1998 Jeep CherokeeL6-4.0L	Service typeBrake Master Cylinder Replacement	Estimate$499.79	Shop/Dealer Price$579.88 - $814.33
2000 Jeep CherokeeL6-4.0L	Service typeBrake Master Cylinder Replacement	Estimate$499.79	Shop/Dealer Price$579.72 - $814.05
1992 Jeep CherokeeL4-2.5L	Service typeBrake Master Cylinder Replacement	Estimate$328.91	Shop/Dealer Price$376.50 - $515.08

Show example Jeep Cherokee Brake Master Cylinder Replacement prices

What is the brake master cylinder and how does it work?

The brake master cylinder has a piston that pressurizes fluid in the brake lines to each wheel cylinder as you apply force to the brake pedal. That pressure moves the pistons that are in the wheel cylinders. As the pistons in those wheel cylinders move, they force the brake pads or shoes tightly against the rotors or drums allowing the car to stop quickly.

The size of the pistons in the master cylinder and in the wheel cylinders are carefully selected when designing a car. This allows drivers to apply moderate pressure on the brake pedal when stopping, but creates tremendous pressure applied at the wheel cylinders. A car can then stop quickly even at high speeds. Depending on how much force is applied to the brake pedal, the pressure in a car’s brake lines will typically be in the range of 800 PSI to 2,000 PSI.

Master Cylinder

When to replace the master cylinder?

External fluid leaks. There should be no fluid visible on the external surfaces of any portion of the master cylinder or the plastic fluid reservoir.
Low, slowly falling, or spongy brake pedal. Faulty internal seals on the piston can cause internal leaks and also seepage of brake fluid into the power assist brake booster. Internal leaks will typically be accompanied by a low pedal, a spongy brake pedal, or a pedal that slowly sinks as you maintain pressure. In all cases, you will experience reduced braking abilities.
Discolored brake fluid. No brake fluids, other than those specified for the year, make, and model, are fully compatible with a car’s internal rubber seals in the master cylinder. Discoloration of brake fluid can also occur due to moisture and particulate contaminants in the fluid.
Warning lights on the dash. If the brake system warning light illuminates, there are several potential causes but failure of the master cylinder is in the list of causes that would have to be investigated.

How do mechanics replace the brake master cylinder?

On vehicles with power brakes, the master cylinder is bolted to the metal housing of the power brake booster. There is usually an electrical plug connecting to a brake fluid level sensor on the master cylinder reservoir and that plug must be disconnected.
Once all steel brake lines are disconnected from the master cylinder, the master cylinder is unbolted from the brake booster and removed from the vehicle.
The new master cylinder must be bench-bled to expel air from internal passages that contain the piston. Then the new master cylinder is bolted to the brake booster and the brake lines are reattached. The electrical plug for the fluid level sensor is reconnected.
Whenever a new master cylinder is installed, brakes lines to wheel positions must be bled to remove air, old fluid and contaminants. If your vehicle is equipped with anti-lock brakes, the mechanic may use a bidirectional scan tool during brake bleeding to actuate the ABS pump, thus ensuring that all air is removed from the complex valving in the ABS system.
All brake line connections that were removed during the master cylinder replacement are inspected for any leakage and the vehicle is road tested to ensure normal operation of the brakes.

Is it safe to drive with a master cylinder problem?

No, any fault in the master cylinder, which is part of the braking system creates a safety risk. A fully operational brake system is essential to quickly stopping your car. Driving a vehicle isn’t safe, if the master cylinder is leaking or has other faults, as braking distances might be longer than normal. The braking system on a vehicle is among the most important safety systems and must be fully functional to safely drive your vehicle.

When replacing the master cylinder keep in mind:

The master cylinder is only one component of many in a vehicle’s braking system. During replacement of the master cylinder, all vehicle braking system components should be inspected to ensure maximum braking power is available.
The amount of friction material remaining on the brake pads and brake shoes should be verified.
Brake lines and flexible rubber hoses at each wheel position should be inspected for corrosion and deterioration.
The power brake booster should be evaluated to ensure that power assist is working properly.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee

Meet some of our expert Jeep mechanics

Real customer reviews from Jeep owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(577)

Rating Summary

543

17

2

4

11

543

17

2

4

11

SEE REVIEWS NEAR ME

Bill

30 years of experience

52 reviews

Bill

30 years of experience

by Jordan Turboff

Cherokee 2015 - Oil Change - Golden, CO

Always professional and does a great job!

Luis

28 years of experience

40 reviews

Luis

28 years of experience

by George Gines

Cherokee 2016 - Bleed Brakes - Buffalo Grove, IL

Did the job quick, was very professional highly recommend!

Nathan

13 years of experience

12 reviews

Nathan

13 years of experience

by Cody Stein

Cherokee 1991 - Tire Rotation - Eugene, OR

Fast, accurate, friendly.

Nathan

13 years of experience

12 reviews

Nathan

13 years of experience

by Cody Stein

Cherokee 1991 - Power Steering Fluid Service - Eugene, OR

Fast, accurate, friendly.

Excellent Rating

(577)

Rating Summary

543

17

2

4

11

543

17

2

4

11

SEE REVIEWS NEAR ME

Recent articles & questions

P2105 OBD-II Trouble Code: Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Engine Shutdown

P2105 P2105 trouble code definition Throttle Actuator Control System (TAC) - Forced Engine Shutdown What the P2105 code means This code is set when the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) has failed or the PCM has detected one or more problems...

How to Find an Online Defensive Driving Course

To operate a motor vehicle on the roads, you need to get a driver’s license. Once you have a driver’s license, you don’t usually need to be retested to get it again. The problem is that, while driving may begin...

P0098 OBD-II Trouble Code: Intake Air Temperature Sensor 2 Circuit High

P0098 P0098 code definition Intake Air Temperature Sensor 2 Circuit High What the P0098 code means P0098 is the OBD-II generic code indicating the engine control module (ECM) has determined that the intake air temperature sensor 2 (IAT2) has an...

Where is the fuel tank pressure sensor in my car?

The fuel tank pressure sensor is located in the top of the fuel tank. The fuel tank will need to be removed to replace the sensor. The fuel tank sensor is not very common to go bad on this car....

2012 Tundra Crewmax 4x4 in need of Front and Rear Rotors/Pads. Any recommendation as to what to replace them with and why?

Hi Cris. Thanks for writing in today. In regards to replacement brake components, my general rule of thumb is that OEM is always the best solution. As much as I believe there are several great aftermarket components on the market...

Ok, this is a little long but I'd love to hear your guys thoughts. I bought a 2014 Impreza AWD 135k miles with the automatic CVT transmission two days ago to flip ($1000) worth (~$7500). The guy got the car from a dealer auction, said it needed a transmission, and didn't want to put the time into it. I'm a car flipper hobbyist so I was looking for something to occupy my time. The car starts and the engine is great, no lights on the dash. The underlying problem is when I shift the car into a gear, THE CAR DOES NOT MOVE. It shifts fine, but the second I rev the engine to try to move the wheels, the dashboard lights up like everyone else here. Turn it off and on again, it goes back to being fine. OBD Scanner says p0700, p2750, and p2746. 1st code is a general transmission problem code, the other two are the primary and secondary speed sensors on the transmission. My initial plan was to get a trans from a junkyard ($450 used) ((car-parts.com) and throw it in, thinking that might cover all of my bases. So I started to drain the fluid to find out it looks dark brown or nearly black. (Youtube shows this might be common) I understand ALOT of people fix this with a valve body ($350-$450 used) or brake light switch (my lights all work and it shifts into gear fine) but after reading this, I might get lucky switching the speed sensors (2x $88). I refilled the transmission with CVT Fluid from the dealership ($75) so I can do an official diagnostic with a multimeter to check harnesses and the TCM (everything checks out). Unfortunately I need to at least lower the transmission a bit so I can take off the primary speed sensor, but if this doesn't work I'll get a transmission from a junkyard and swap it. Either way idk If I can lose on this flip. I'm hoping someone might respond by tomorrow to let me know if both speed sensors being bad would stop my car from moving.The next step in the diagnosis is to replace the speed sensors, but the codes were p0700, p2750, and p2746. I feel like it's weird for both sensors to go bad at the same time. But if they did, would this prevent my car from moving while in gear?

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com