Strut Assembly Replacement Estimate for Ford Escape

Ford Escape Strut Assembly Replacement costs $432 on average. Following is a breakdown of the labor and parts estimates.

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YourMechanic Price
$180 to $725
Labor: $98 -$144
Parts: $82 -$581
Average Dealer price
$293 to 1329
Average Shop price
$219 to 876
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CarServiceYourMechanic PriceShop/Dealer Price
2007 Ford EscapeL4-2.3LService typeStrut Assembly - Front ReplacementYourMechanic Price$753.80Shop/Dealer Price$936.89 - $1427.34
2009 Ford EscapeL4-2.5L HybridService typeStrut Assembly - Rear ReplacementYourMechanic Price$215.09Shop/Dealer Price$264.79 - $367.93
2012 Ford EscapeV6-3.0LService typeStrut Assembly - Front ReplacementYourMechanic Price$327.12Shop/Dealer Price$403.58 - $574.06
2009 Ford EscapeV6-3.0LService typeStrut Assembly - Front ReplacementYourMechanic Price$742.19Shop/Dealer Price$922.45 - $1404.25
2011 Ford EscapeL4-2.5L HybridService typeStrut Assembly - Front ReplacementYourMechanic Price$753.80Shop/Dealer Price$936.91 - $1427.38
2006 Ford EscapeL4-2.3L HybridService typeStrut Assembly - Front ReplacementYourMechanic Price$753.80Shop/Dealer Price$936.88 - $1427.33
2009 Ford EscapeL4-2.5L HybridService typeStrut Assembly - Front ReplacementYourMechanic Price$756.71Shop/Dealer Price$940.67 - $1433.42
2001 Ford EscapeL4-2.0LService typeStrut Assembly - Rear ReplacementYourMechanic Price$184.54Shop/Dealer Price$226.59 - $306.81
Show example Ford Escape Strut Assembly Replacement prices

Parts required for a Ford Escape Strut Assembly Replacement

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450 reviews
36 years of experience
Everything overall was very good. The only thing I would say, meant only as constructive feedback, is that I originally got a quote from the company based on needing a rotor and brake pad. When the first mechanic came out I told him I thought I might, based on internet research need a hub bearing assembly. As it turned out that was the case. Tyrone said the new quote would be about twenty dollars more, $257.00 and change up from the original quote of $232. and change), and that the company would call me when they got the part and that would include the bearing assembly, rotor and brake pad if needed. He said he would tell the company that I was wanting to get the work done as soon as possible. He did not tell me that he couldn't do the work because he didn't have the tool needed for the bearing replacement. So, when I didn't hear back from anyone by the next day I called and had to basically start over. That's when I scheduled with Ben because he is the only one that has the tool for bearing replacement. All well and fine except when he, (Ben), came out he thought he was only going to be replacing the bearing assembly and I told him the rotor needed replacing as well because it was damaged from my driving the car for so long without getting repairs. (this was before I called "your mechanic" in the first place). Anyway, he got the other needed part, did the work and everything was fine. But the price went from $257.00 and change to $387 or so. I informed him (Ben) that Tyrone had told me the $70.00 already paid from when he (Tyrone) came out was supposed to be credited to me. He called it in and I was credited. So the final bill came out to $317.70. The work was done I'm very happy with Ben in the work he did and how he handled everything, but it seems like it might be good in situations like this for the mechanics to carry extra parts that would not be unusual to need for this type of job, like brake pads, rotors, that would or possibly be needed as the work is gotten into. So, again, I don't want this to come off as harsh criticism, but I guess my only complaint is that the quote went up without a full explanation as to why, (I'm assuming that the quote was just for parts and labor on the bearing and not the rotor and possible pad as Tyrone had indicated), and then the communication between home office and mechanic. Now, as far as the overall service, I'm happy, my brakes are fixed, Ben did a great job, Tyrone was good at explaining that after he got into it that I did need a bearing assembly, but I wish he had told me that I needed to call the company and that he could not do the work because of not having the proper tool. Please do not get on Tyrone, as this was not a huge problem, just a mis-communication, I think. Anyway, as previously stated I'm overall happy with everything. Will I use you again, most definitely, and Ben and Tyrone are both terrific mechanics and your program is overall a great convenience, honest evaluation of work needed with fair prices and a worthy service. The twelve months or 12,000 mile warranty is excellent as well.
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432 reviews
22 years of experience
How awesome is Patrick??? Well, lemme tell you! My 1st appt was with Dillon and he never showed up! But Patrick was on time, fast and answered all our questions. I've already recommended him and YourMechanic to my coworkers. I look forward to using YourMechanic services again. THANKS PATRICK!
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115 reviews
27 years of experience
I was very pleased with Robert. He went over the report from Ford and checked thoroughly all that they had said. In fact he found something that O'Reilly had pointed out to me that Ford claimed was not there. Thank you, Robert, for cleaning out the mouse nest. Really appreciated.
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111 reviews
22 years of experience
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All about Strut Assembly Replacement

The strut assembly, an essential part of your car's suspension system, is attached to the front wheels and is used to absorb road shock, providing a smooth ride. Most cars made after 1995 have shock absorbers in the rear and strut assemblies in the front suspension. Older cars may have shock absorbers at all four wheels. Faulty or damaged struts affect the ride comfort as well as the braking effectiveness. The strut assembly, located in the front or rear of the car, is basically a shock absorber with a spring coil for additional support. The front wheels have the extra weight of the engine and need extra support to absorb shock from the road. The shock absorber has a piston and a cylinder that contains a gas or liquid substance. The spring is attached to the piston. When you drive over a bump, the piston inside the cylinder moves up and down against the gas/fluid and the spring, absorbing the shock from the bump. The strut assembly takes a beating over time, especially on bumpy roads. It will eventually start leaking the gas/liquid, leaving you with an unstable or rugged ride. With worn out struts, it is possible that the tires could lose contact with the road and/or the tires will wear out prematurely.

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