Ford 300 Noise from engine or exhaust Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(56)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(56)

Noise from engine or exhaust Inspection Service

How much does a Noise from engine or exhaust Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Ford 300 Noise from engine or exhaust Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1963 Ford 300V8-6.4LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
1963 Ford 300V8-5.8LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1963 Ford 300V8-4.3LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1963 Ford 300L6-3.3LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
1963 Ford 300L6-3.6LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
1963 Ford 300V8-7.0LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1963 Ford 300V8-4.7LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
1963 Ford 300V8-6.6LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$110.24 - $117.94
Show example Ford 300 Noise from engine or exhaust Inspection prices

Your car’s engine makes quite a racket. Some sounds are music to the ears like the exhaust note of a finely tuned V12. (Some manufacturers have resorted to placing speakers under the dash to simulate the sound.) On the other hand, some are cries for help, such as the jolt of a backfire, the snake-like hiss of a ruptured hose, or the incessant tapping of a defective lifter.

Common reasons for this to happen:

Here’s a guide to engine noises and some potential causes.

Whirring

Description: A vibrating or buzzing, much like the sound a window fan makes when turned on.

Cause: A whirring sound that changes in relation to engine speed could indicate trouble brewing under the hood. There are a myriad of possible causes, typically on belt driven accessories or the belt(s) themselves. Your mechanic will start by listening to the bearings of your alternator, idler, and tensioner pulleys. If no problem is found, the water pump is a likely culprit.

Hissing, Gurgling, and/or Sizzling

Description: Hissing sounds like air or steam escaping from a pipe or hose. Sizzling is like a slice of bacon in a hot griddle.

Cause: These three sounds often go hand-in-hand with an overheating engine. The hissing means your cooling system has possibly developed a leak. Gurgling sounds like a coffee pot percolating, and is the result of coolant boiling (which is abnormal in a properly operating system). Sizzling is the result of that coolant or oil landing on a heated engine component like, say, the exhaust manifold. The best course of action is to pull over as soon as safely possible, let the engine cool down and call a mechanic. If the car isn’t overheating but is still hissing, other possible maladies include a clogged exhaust and catalytic converter, but these are usually associated with more noticeable problems driving.

Loud Exhaust Note

Description: We are not talking about a throaty, grumbling, wonderfully musical exhaust note. No. We are talking about loud noises that occur unintentionally and suddenly.

Cause: The most likely perpetrator here will be a broken muffler or exhaust pipe. If a loss in performance accompanies that noise, then the problem is likely something deeper, possibly a cracked exhaust manifold or broken catalytic converter.

Backfires

Description: A blast from an M-80. Technically, a backfire is fuel detonating outside the combustion chamber. It can occur in either the intake system or the exhaust system, depending on the cause.

Cause: The most common is moisture or water in the fuel system. While your car’s gas tank may be tightly sealed, H2O can still seep in as the result of condensation caused by changes in humidity and/or dramatic swings in outside temperatures. The fuel filter should remove it, but some water can get by, especially if the filter is old. An unbalanced air-to-fuel mixture is the suspect of interest here, and may be from leaky vacuum hoses or a malfunctioning air intake valve.

Sputtering

Description: Imagine a jerking action from the engine and/or powertrain. The engine indiscriminately loses power, or rpms fluctuate, as the driver accelerates.

Cause: An incomplete combustion event. While this doesn’t sound dire, it can cause serious damage to other engine components, specifically catalytic converters. On 1996 and later models, a misfire will typically be accompanied by a flashing check engine light.. Have the technician check the ignition system, not just simply replace the spark plugs. This includes examining the ignition coil, rotor, cap, and wires (if so equipped).

A blocked or malfunctioning fuel injector will also cause your car to sputter. In some cases, it may be accompanied by a steady clicking sound.

Tapping or Clicking

Description: Imagine the sound made by a watch's movement or a ratcheting wrench. It’s a metallic tick, as though someone is striking the inside of the engine block with a metal stick in a rhythmic manner.

Cause: When tapping is engine related, it is usually more pronounced at idle, and increases in speed with engine RPM.. It may disappear at high speeds. In this case, it is probably upper valve train or tappet noise caused by either low oil pressure, excessive valve clearance or a defective hydraulic valve lifter.

The most common cause -- and easiest to remedy -- is that the engine is low on oil. Another answer is that there is some blockage in the system. Culprits could include a worn or damaged oil pump or a clogged oil filter. If you haven't had your oil and filter changed in a while, consider doing so immediately.

If it's not an oil issue, it's potentially related to the valve train, as we stated above; i.e., a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valve train components.

Spark Knocking (Preignition)

Description: A light, metallic knocking sound, usually under acceleration.

Cause: Knocking is most commonly attributed to improper ignition timing, lean air/fuel ratio, overheating, or improper fuel octane level.

It's a common misconception that there are benefits to using a higher-octane gasoline in your vehicle than the owner's manual specifies; however, using a lower-grade fuel can very well produce engine knock.

Bearing Knock

Description: Bearing knock is typically a deeper tone, directly related to engine RPM.

Cause: It is typically associated with excessive main bearing clearance (a regular, rumble-like knock), worn connecting rod bearings (sharp, irregular knock).Bearing knocks usually involve labor-intensive repairs. The good news is, regularly performed preventative maintenance (oil and filter changes) will typically prevent bearing damage from occurring for the life of your vehicle.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to determine the source and cause of the engine or exhaust noise, and will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will typically begin by listening to identify the general source of the noise. In the case of potential belt or accessory noise, a stethoscope is used while the engine is running to listen to individual bearings under load. A noise that has a corresponding drivability concern (misfire, preignition), will usually be approached with a scanner or code reader, to determine which electrical system may be malfunctioning. Internal engine noises (knock, tick) will almost always begin by checking the engine oil level. If the oil level and condition are acceptable, a more extensive disassembly may be required.

How important is this service?

Given that a noise can indicate a minor or major issue, it's wise to book a mechanic to perform an inspection as soon as possible and learn promptly what's at the root of the engine or exhaust noise.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Ford mechanics

Real customer reviews from Ford owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(56)

Rating Summary
53
2
0
0
1
53
2
0
0
1

Chris

22 years of experience
2229 reviews
Chris
22 years of experience
Ford F-150 V8-4.6L - Noise from engine or exhaust - Irvine, California
As always Chris was top notch. Figured out my issue and came with a plan of action to resolve it.

Walter

46 years of experience
343 reviews
Walter
46 years of experience
Ford Taurus V6-3.0L - Noise from engine or exhaust - Tulsa, Oklahoma
Great Experience

Andrew

14 years of experience
103 reviews
Andrew
14 years of experience
Ford E-350 Econoline Club Wagon V8-5.8L - Noise from engine or exhaust - Puyallup, Washington
Andy arrived right on time and greeted me in a friendly manner. He then put his mask on before proceeding. Andy did his check in, then asked me about my vehicle issues. I explained what had been happening. He began his investigation. Within minutes he had identified 2 issues. We discussed both of them.

Richard

21 years of experience
461 reviews
Richard
21 years of experience
Ford F700 V8-7.0L - Noise from engine or exhaust - Powder Springs, Georgia

Excellent Rating

(56)

Rating Summary
53
2
0
0
1
53
2
0
0
1
Number of Ford Noise from engine or exhaust Inspection services completed
616+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Ford MECHANICS
1700+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

How to Buy a Good Quality Heater
In In the dead of winter, when the cold air is nipping at your heels, nothing is better than climbing into a nice, toasty warm car. However, having a heater problem like a heater that blows cold air or leaks...
Nevada Speed Limits, Laws, and Fines
Following Following is an overview of the laws, limits, and fines as they relate to speeding traffic violations in the state of Nevada. Speed limits in Nevada As of October 2015, Nevada raised its maximum allowable speed limit to 80...
What Does the Steering Lock Warning Light Mean?
The steering lock indicator light means your steering wheel is locked and can not be moved, usually until the vehicle's keys are present.

Car is hard to shift

I am assuming you have an automatic transmission because you had it flushed. Hard to shift issues can be caused by a bad cable that goes from the shifter to the transmission shift lever, The cables will get dirty and...

no room to install snap ring that came with lower ball joint.

According to the official Factory Service Manual for your vehicle, the ball joint that was designed for the vehicle, and thence installed on the vehicle, has a provision for a snap ring and the ring is installed at the factory....

Car hesitated and transmission engaged before acceleration

Some of the CX5s have been having severe transmission problems, which is exactly what it sounds like your's is experiencing. There have been a couple cases of complete failure, even with under 1000 miles on them. It's possible that it...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com