Dodge Royal Monaco Noise from engine or exhaust Inspection at your home or office.

Our certified mobile mechanics come to you 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(16)

How A Diagnostic Works

Instantly book a certified mobile mechanic to come to you

Mechanic diagnoses the problem and quotes necessary repairs

Your vehicle is ready to go

Fair, upfront & transparent pricing for all services

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to you now.

Customer Ratings

(16)

Noise from engine or exhaust Inspection Service

How much does a Noise from engine or exhaust Inspection cost?

On average, the cost for a Dodge Royal Monaco Noise from engine or exhaust Inspection is $95 with $0 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
1975 Dodge Royal MonacoV8-7.2LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$114.99Shop/Dealer Price$124.99 - $132.49
1975 Dodge Royal MonacoV8-6.6LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1976 Dodge Royal MonacoV8-5.9LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1977 Dodge Royal MonacoV8-5.9LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$104.99 - $112.48
1976 Dodge Royal MonacoV8-6.6LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.02 - $112.55
1977 Dodge Royal MonacoV8-5.2LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$94.99Shop/Dealer Price$105.01 - $112.52
1976 Dodge Royal MonacoV8-7.2LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$109.87 - $117.28
1977 Dodge Royal MonacoV8-7.2LService typeNoise from engine or exhaust InspectionEstimate$99.99Shop/Dealer Price$110.24 - $117.94
Show example Dodge Royal Monaco Noise from engine or exhaust Inspection prices

Your car’s engine makes quite a racket. Some sounds are music to the ears like the exhaust note of a finely tuned V12. (Some manufacturers have resorted to placing speakers under the dash to simulate the sound.) On the other hand, some are cries for help, such as the jolt of a backfire, the snake-like hiss of a ruptured hose, or the incessant tapping of a defective lifter.

Common reasons for this to happen:

Here’s a guide to engine noises and some potential causes.

Whirring

Description: A vibrating or buzzing, much like the sound a window fan makes when turned on.

Cause: A whirring sound that changes in relation to engine speed could indicate trouble brewing under the hood. There are a myriad of possible causes, typically on belt driven accessories or the belt(s) themselves. Your mechanic will start by listening to the bearings of your alternator, idler, and tensioner pulleys. If no problem is found, the water pump is a likely culprit.

Hissing, Gurgling, and/or Sizzling

Description: Hissing sounds like air or steam escaping from a pipe or hose. Sizzling is like a slice of bacon in a hot griddle.

Cause: These three sounds often go hand-in-hand with an overheating engine. The hissing means your cooling system has possibly developed a leak. Gurgling sounds like a coffee pot percolating, and is the result of coolant boiling (which is abnormal in a properly operating system). Sizzling is the result of that coolant or oil landing on a heated engine component like, say, the exhaust manifold. The best course of action is to pull over as soon as safely possible, let the engine cool down and call a mechanic. If the car isn’t overheating but is still hissing, other possible maladies include a clogged exhaust and catalytic converter, but these are usually associated with more noticeable problems driving.

Loud Exhaust Note

Description: We are not talking about a throaty, grumbling, wonderfully musical exhaust note. No. We are talking about loud noises that occur unintentionally and suddenly.

Cause: The most likely perpetrator here will be a broken muffler or exhaust pipe. If a loss in performance accompanies that noise, then the problem is likely something deeper, possibly a cracked exhaust manifold or broken catalytic converter.

Backfires

Description: A blast from an M-80. Technically, a backfire is fuel detonating outside the combustion chamber. It can occur in either the intake system or the exhaust system, depending on the cause.

Cause: The most common is moisture or water in the fuel system. While your car’s gas tank may be tightly sealed, H2O can still seep in as the result of condensation caused by changes in humidity and/or dramatic swings in outside temperatures. The fuel filter should remove it, but some water can get by, especially if the filter is old. An unbalanced air-to-fuel mixture is the suspect of interest here, and may be from leaky vacuum hoses or a malfunctioning air intake valve.

Sputtering

Description: Imagine a jerking action from the engine and/or powertrain. The engine indiscriminately loses power, or rpms fluctuate, as the driver accelerates.

Cause: An incomplete combustion event. While this doesn’t sound dire, it can cause serious damage to other engine components, specifically catalytic converters. On 1996 and later models, a misfire will typically be accompanied by a flashing check engine light.. Have the technician check the ignition system, not just simply replace the spark plugs. This includes examining the ignition coil, rotor, cap, and wires (if so equipped).

A blocked or malfunctioning fuel injector will also cause your car to sputter. In some cases, it may be accompanied by a steady clicking sound.

Tapping or Clicking

Description: Imagine the sound made by a watch's movement or a ratcheting wrench. It’s a metallic tick, as though someone is striking the inside of the engine block with a metal stick in a rhythmic manner.

Cause: When tapping is engine related, it is usually more pronounced at idle, and increases in speed with engine RPM.. It may disappear at high speeds. In this case, it is probably upper valve train or tappet noise caused by either low oil pressure, excessive valve clearance or a defective hydraulic valve lifter.

The most common cause -- and easiest to remedy -- is that the engine is low on oil. Another answer is that there is some blockage in the system. Culprits could include a worn or damaged oil pump or a clogged oil filter. If you haven't had your oil and filter changed in a while, consider doing so immediately.

If it's not an oil issue, it's potentially related to the valve train, as we stated above; i.e., a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valve train components.

Spark Knocking (Preignition)

Description: A light, metallic knocking sound, usually under acceleration.

Cause: Knocking is most commonly attributed to improper ignition timing, lean air/fuel ratio, overheating, or improper fuel octane level.

It's a common misconception that there are benefits to using a higher-octane gasoline in your vehicle than the owner's manual specifies; however, using a lower-grade fuel can very well produce engine knock.

Bearing Knock

Description: Bearing knock is typically a deeper tone, directly related to engine RPM.

Cause: It is typically associated with excessive main bearing clearance (a regular, rumble-like knock), worn connecting rod bearings (sharp, irregular knock).Bearing knocks usually involve labor-intensive repairs. The good news is, regularly performed preventative maintenance (oil and filter changes) will typically prevent bearing damage from occurring for the life of your vehicle.

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to determine the source and cause of the engine or exhaust noise, and will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.

How it's done:

The mechanic will typically begin by listening to identify the general source of the noise. In the case of potential belt or accessory noise, a stethoscope is used while the engine is running to listen to individual bearings under load. A noise that has a corresponding drivability concern (misfire, preignition), will usually be approached with a scanner or code reader, to determine which electrical system may be malfunctioning. Internal engine noises (knock, tick) will almost always begin by checking the engine oil level. If the oil level and condition are acceptable, a more extensive disassembly may be required.

How important is this service?

Given that a noise can indicate a minor or major issue, it's wise to book a mechanic to perform an inspection as soon as possible and learn promptly what's at the root of the engine or exhaust noise.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Dodge mechanics

Real customer reviews from Dodge owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(16)

Rating Summary
16
0
0
0
0
16
0
0
0
0

Breck

20 years of experience
681 reviews
Breck
20 years of experience
Dodge Durango V8-4.7L - Noise from engine or exhaust - Houston, Texas
Very thorough and knowledgeable. Straight to business and provided feedback as needed. Responsive to customer, something not all people possess when providing a service.

Matthew

33 years of experience
1259 reviews
Matthew
33 years of experience
Dodge Charger V6-2.7L - Noise from engine or exhaust - Hampton, Virginia
Thanks for being real with me.

Peter

43 years of experience
1321 reviews
Peter
43 years of experience
Dodge Grand Caravan V6-3.3L - Noise from engine or exhaust - Glendale, Arizona
Peter showed up early for his appointment. Was very professional and took the extra time to explain to both me and my daughter the condition of the car, and his recommendations....... Very good job sir will be calling you back for more work. Thank you

Marcus

8 years of experience
66 reviews
Marcus
8 years of experience
Dodge Caravan V6-3.3L - Noise from engine or exhaust - Alexandria, Virginia
Marcus is a young and energetic, customer friendly mechanic, who figured out the issue within a minute (which the earlier mechanic Maurice who claimed 30 years of experience couldn’t during the last visit) that the siren like noise was because of the rear windshield wiper fluid pump was on all the time and provided a temporary fix (which was fine as I was not using the rear windshield wiper fluid) by disconnecting that pump, which stopped that siren like noise. He was also very friendly and allowed me to be around. He also provided a 50 point inspection of my van. Great mechanic, great work. As a customer I am very much satisfied.

Excellent Rating

(16)

Rating Summary
16
0
0
0
0
16
0
0
0
0
Number of Dodge Noise from engine or exhaust Inspection services completed
176+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Dodge MECHANICS
1400+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

Cell Phones and Texting: Distracted Driving Laws in Idaho
Idaho Idaho defines distracted driving is anything that diverts your attention away from focusing on driving. This includes electronic distractions as well as interacting with passengers. The Idaho Transportation Department has placed these distractions into three categories: Visual Manual Cognitive...
How to Figure Out Your Monthly Car Lease Payment
Leasing Leasing a car can be an intimidating endeavor, especially if someone is leasing for the first time. For most people, the monthly lease payment will be a crucial factor and knowing how to calculate that number is key for...
P2144 OBD-II Trouble Code: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Vent Control Circuit Low
P2144 code means the powertrain control module has detected a fault with the rate of flow through the exhaust gas recirculation vent control circuit.

Ping noise and jerking when the car idles

My guess is that the noise you are hearing it the timing chain (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/timing-chain-replacement). These engines are well known for having problems with the timing chain, camshaft actuators, and solenoids. This problem first starts out as brief rattle noise upon...

When driving it feel like the tires are wobbling, but they are not.

You should not drive the vehicle until having the wheels checked to make sure they are seated correctly and secured tightly. If the rims are seated and tight then you may have a bad tire that have broken internal steel...

Need to cycle fuel pump on and off two or three times before starting. Fuel pump or pressure regulator?

Hi Peter. Thanks for contacting us tonight. What you are describing is common with a faulty fuel pump relay or pressure regulator - as opposed to the fuel pump itself. If you're able to 'cycle the pump' that typically indicates...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com