Volkswagen Jetta Control Arm Assembly Replacement at your home or office.

Our mobile mechanics offer services 7 days a week. Upfront and transparent pricing.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(9)

Included for free with this service

Online Booking

Mechanic comes to you

12-month / 12k-mile warranty

Free 50 point safety inspection

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to your home or office 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Customer Ratings

(9)

Control Arm Assembly Replacement Service

How much does a Control Arm Assembly Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a Volkswagen Jetta Control Arm Assembly Replacement is $198 with $30 for parts and $168 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2004 Volkswagen JettaL4-2.0LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$522.78Shop/Dealer Price$611.30 - $867.12
2016 Volkswagen JettaL4-2.0L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$429.01Shop/Dealer Price$494.66 - $686.68
2013 Volkswagen JettaL4-2.0L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$904.04Shop/Dealer Price$1064.24 - $1536.88
2018 Volkswagen JettaL4-1.8L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$542.72Shop/Dealer Price$598.72 - $757.13
2012 Volkswagen JettaL4-2.0L Turbo DieselService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$443.61Shop/Dealer Price$511.39 - $705.01
2003 Volkswagen JettaL4-2.0LService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$511.97Shop/Dealer Price$598.56 - $852.94
1997 Volkswagen JettaL4-1.9L Turbo DieselService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$511.97Shop/Dealer Price$598.41 - $852.68
2013 Volkswagen JettaL4-2.0L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$429.01Shop/Dealer Price$494.69 - $686.73
Show example Volkswagen Jetta Control Arm Assembly Replacement prices

What is a control arm and how does it work?

A control arm is a suspension component, usually made of heavy gauge steel or aluminum, that links the steering knuckle in the front — or axle carrier in the rear — to the frame of the vehicle. Many vehicles have upper and lower control arms. The inboard link(s) of the arm securely bolt to the frame of the vehicle through rubber bushings, while the outboard link of the control arm connects to the steering knuckle through a ball joint; all of which allow the control of the up and down movement of the steering knuckle or axle carrier. This minimizes the transmission of shock and vibration to the vehicle’s body.

When to consider replacing a control arm:

The structural portion of the control arm can last the life of the vehicle — except for cases of corrosion or crash damage. However, the rubber bushings and the ball joint in a control arm have a limited life. A mechanic should investigate if you notice:

  • Wheel alignment difficulties. Should the bushings, or the ball joint, in a control arm be worn, it will be impossible to properly align the vehicle. The worn components, or the entire arm, must be replaced.
  • Vehicle won’t track straight or pulls to one side. A car will not track straight and may require constant steering correction if there is a worn, bent, or loose control arm.
  • Clunking or squeaking noise. A loose control arm, or a control arm with dried out, rotted, or loose bushings, may move enough to cause detectable noise from the suspension as you go over bumps in the road.
  • Vehicle pulls to one side only when braking. Worn bushings or ball joints can allow control arm to shift when braking, causing the vehicle to pull to one side. Although, this could also be caused by brake calipers.

How do mechanics replace a control arm?

  • The vehicle is raised and supported on steel jack stands, and the wheel and tire assembly is removed.
  • Stabilizer bar links are detached from the control arm, if applicable. ABS wiring to the wheel speed sensor, if routed along the arm, is disconnected.
  • Control arm mounting bolts are detached from the frame and from the axle carrier if the control arm is in the rear.
  • For front control arms connected to the steering knuckle via a ball joint, the nut is removed from the ball joint stud and the stud is pushed through the steering knuckle to free the arm.
  • The arm is lowered from the vehicle and examined by the mechanic to confirm that the noise, or other problem, actually originated from a defect in the arm.
  • The new arm is installed using new mounting bolts if required by the service manual. In many cases, the fasteners must be tightened with the vehicle weight on the suspension in order to ensure the bushings are in a neutral, or resting, position.
  • The vehicle is lowered and road tested to confirm the problem is resolved. Replacing a control arm will change the vehicle alignment settings and the mechanic will refer you to a professional alignment shop to have the vehicle alignment set to factory specifications.

Is it safe to drive with a control arm problem?

No. If the car wanders on the road, pulls to one side, or noise from the suspension is loud, you need to schedule repair right away. Should the problem be limited to low levels of noise, such as clunking or squeaking, continued use of the car is reasonable until you can schedule a repair. Should the control arms be damaged as a result of a collision, it would be unsafe to drive the car until it is repaired.

When replacing a control arm keep in mind:

  • The number of control arm types vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the design of the vehicle suspension.
  • Control arms should be replaced in pairs — arms on both sides of a front or rear axle — if the reason for replacement is worn control arm bushings or a worn ball joint.
  • All other suspension components should be inspected when control arms are replaced because looseness, damage, or excessive wear in other parts of the suspension system will make it impossible to perform a wheel alignment after the control arms are replaced.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert Volkswagen mechanics

Real customer reviews from Volkswagen owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(9)

Rating Summary
8
0
0
1
0
8
0
0
1
0

Chet

35 years of experience
613 reviews
Chet
35 years of experience
Jetta 2006 - Control Arm Assembly - San Diego, CA
Chet was extremely knowledgable and was able to quickly diagnose my issue and fix it. He provided great recommendations for future repairs/maintenance and was able to help me prioritize, based on vehicle need and cost.

Gustavo

15 years of experience
12 reviews
Gustavo
15 years of experience
Jetta 2013 - Spark Plugs - Irvington, NJ
This is my first experience with a mechanic coming to my home to fix my car. Gustavos was on time and very professional. If I could rate him 100 stars I would. Great job and would definitely recommend him to my friends and family.

Gustavo

15 years of experience
12 reviews
Gustavo
15 years of experience
Jetta 2013 - Check Engine Light is on - Irvington, NJ
This is my first experience with a mechanic coming to my home to fix my car. Gustavos was on time and very professional. If I could rate him 100 stars I would. Great job and would definitely recommend him to my friends and family.

Gustavo

15 years of experience
12 reviews
Gustavo
15 years of experience
Jetta 2013 - Ignition Coil - Irvington, NJ
This is my first experience with a mechanic coming to my home to fix my car. Gustavos was on time and very professional. If I could rate him 100 stars I would. Great job and would definitely recommend him to my friends and family.

Excellent Rating

(9)

Rating Summary
8
0
0
1
0
8
0
0
1
0
Number of Volkswagen Jetta Control Arm Assembly Replacement services completed
99+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT Volkswagen MECHANICS
1000+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

P2047 OBD-II Trouble Code: Reductant Injector Circuit/Open Bank 1 Unit 1
P2047 P2047 trouble code definition The P2047 code is a general OBD2 trouble code that points to a fault within the reductant injector circuit. What the P2047 code means The P2047 code means a fault is present in the reductant...
A Buyer’s Guide to the 2012 Acura TSX
The The 2012 Acura TSX is a luxury midsize sedan that comes with superior comfort and convenience. This vehicle offers excellent fuel economy, reliability, and a simple pricing structure for a variety of different budgets. It drives easily down the...
P0146 OBD-II Trouble Code: O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1, Sensor 3)
P0146 P0146 code definition O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 3) What the P0146 code means P0146 is the OBD-II generic code indicating the O2 sensor for bank 1 sensor 3 fails to have a voltage change...

My car hesitate slightly during start up. What could be the problem?

This may be caused by many things as there are a number of systems at work when your car's engine first starts up. This may likely be an air/fuel flow issue since the car does in fact start. Typically, the...

The car stalls occasionally as if the fuel is not been pumped

It sounds like you may have a fuel supply issue that corresponds to the load put on the motor when you turn the A/C on. This may be related to a faulty MAP sensor. The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor...

Where is the oil pump located?

The oil pump is behind the harmonic balancer/crankshaft pulley and is bolted (approximately 8-10 bolts) to the front of the engine block. Prior to suspecting an oil pump fault, use an external pressure gauge to measure actual oil pressure at...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com