BMW 228i xDrive Control Arm Assembly Replacement at your home or office.

Our mobile mechanics offer services 7 days a week. Upfront and transparent pricing.

Estimate price near me

Service Location

Customer Ratings

(57)

Included for free with this service

Online Booking

Mechanic comes to you

12-month / 12k-mile warranty

Free 50 point safety inspection

Our certified mobile mechanics can come to your home or office 7 days a week between 7 AM and 9 PM.

Customer Ratings

(57)

Control Arm Assembly Replacement Service

How much does a Control Arm Assembly Replacement cost?

On average, the cost for a BMW 228i xDrive Control Arm Assembly Replacement is $169 with $55 for parts and $114 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location.

CarServiceEstimateShop/Dealer Price
2016 BMW 228i xDriveL4-2.0L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$388.29Shop/Dealer Price$471.87 - $675.34
2016 BMW 228i xDriveL4-2.0L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$225.27Shop/Dealer Price$274.13 - $373.37
2016 BMW 228i xDriveL4-2.0L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$223.77Shop/Dealer Price$272.25 - $370.36
2015 BMW 228i xDriveL4-2.0L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Right ReplacementEstimate$392.79Shop/Dealer Price$481.60 - $689.00
2016 BMW 228i xDriveL4-2.0L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Front Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$369.57Shop/Dealer Price$454.53 - $662.02
2015 BMW 228i xDriveL4-2.0L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Upper Left ReplacementEstimate$405.15Shop/Dealer Price$498.97 - $733.12
2015 BMW 228i xDriveL4-2.0L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Left ReplacementEstimate$668.33Shop/Dealer Price$826.16 - $1252.98
2015 BMW 228i xDriveL4-2.0L TurboService typeControl Arm Assembly - Rear Lower Right ReplacementEstimate$668.33Shop/Dealer Price$826.95 - $1254.35
Show example BMW 228i xDrive Control Arm Assembly Replacement prices

What is a control arm and how does it work?

A control arm is a suspension component, usually made of heavy gauge steel or aluminum, that links the steering knuckle in the front — or axle carrier in the rear — to the frame of the vehicle. Many vehicles have upper and lower control arms. The inboard link(s) of the arm securely bolt to the frame of the vehicle through rubber bushings, while the outboard link of the control arm connects to the steering knuckle through a ball joint; all of which allow the control of the up and down movement of the steering knuckle or axle carrier. This minimizes the transmission of shock and vibration to the vehicle’s body.

When to consider replacing a control arm:

The structural portion of the control arm can last the life of the vehicle — except for cases of corrosion or crash damage. However, the rubber bushings and the ball joint in a control arm have a limited life. A mechanic should investigate if you notice:

  • Wheel alignment difficulties. Should the bushings, or the ball joint, in a control arm be worn, it will be impossible to properly align the vehicle. The worn components, or the entire arm, must be replaced.
  • Vehicle won’t track straight or pulls to one side. A car will not track straight and may require constant steering correction if there is a worn, bent, or loose control arm.
  • Clunking or squeaking noise. A loose control arm, or a control arm with dried out, rotted, or loose bushings, may move enough to cause detectable noise from the suspension as you go over bumps in the road.
  • Vehicle pulls to one side only when braking. Worn bushings or ball joints can allow control arm to shift when braking, causing the vehicle to pull to one side. Although, this could also be caused by brake calipers.

How do mechanics replace a control arm?

  • The vehicle is raised and supported on steel jack stands, and the wheel and tire assembly is removed.
  • Stabilizer bar links are detached from the control arm, if applicable. ABS wiring to the wheel speed sensor, if routed along the arm, is disconnected.
  • Control arm mounting bolts are detached from the frame and from the axle carrier if the control arm is in the rear.
  • For front control arms connected to the steering knuckle via a ball joint, the nut is removed from the ball joint stud and the stud is pushed through the steering knuckle to free the arm.
  • The arm is lowered from the vehicle and examined by the mechanic to confirm that the noise, or other problem, actually originated from a defect in the arm.
  • The new arm is installed using new mounting bolts if required by the service manual. In many cases, the fasteners must be tightened with the vehicle weight on the suspension in order to ensure the bushings are in a neutral, or resting, position.
  • The vehicle is lowered and road tested to confirm the problem is resolved. Replacing a control arm will change the vehicle alignment settings and the mechanic will refer you to a professional alignment shop to have the vehicle alignment set to factory specifications.

Is it safe to drive with a control arm problem?

No. If the car wanders on the road, pulls to one side, or noise from the suspension is loud, you need to schedule repair right away. Should the problem be limited to low levels of noise, such as clunking or squeaking, continued use of the car is reasonable until you can schedule a repair. Should the control arms be damaged as a result of a collision, it would be unsafe to drive the car until it is repaired.

When replacing a control arm keep in mind:

  • The number of control arm types vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the design of the vehicle suspension.
  • Control arms should be replaced in pairs — arms on both sides of a front or rear axle — if the reason for replacement is worn control arm bushings or a worn ball joint.
  • All other suspension components should be inspected when control arms are replaced because looseness, damage, or excessive wear in other parts of the suspension system will make it impossible to perform a wheel alignment after the control arms are replaced.

Fast and easy service at your home or office

Backed by 12-month, 12.000-mile guarantee


Meet some of our expert BMW mechanics

Real customer reviews from BMW owners like you.

Excellent Rating

(57)

Rating Summary
53
3
0
0
1
53
3
0
0
1

Jimmi

27 years of experience
231 reviews
Jimmi
27 years of experience
BMW 228i xDrive L4-2.0L Turbo - Brake Rotor/Disc Replacement (Rear) - Sanford, Florida
I will only work with Jimmi. Honest mechanic and quality work.

Behrak

9 years of experience
321 reviews
Behrak
9 years of experience
BMW 228i xDrive L4-2.0L Turbo - Oil Change - Duluth, Georgia
Great first experience - will definitely use again!

Damian

11 years of experience
465 reviews
Damian
11 years of experience
BMW 228i xDrive L4-2.0L Turbo - Oil Change - Kensington, Maryland
Damian showed up early to my appointment. He was courteous and friendly.

Jose

10 years of experience
58 reviews
Jose
10 years of experience
BMW 528i L6-2.8L - Control Arm Assembly Replacement (Front Lower Left, Front Lower Right) - Fresno, California
Outstanding work. I will be referring others.

Excellent Rating

(57)

Rating Summary
53
3
0
0
1
53
3
0
0
1
Number of BMW Control Arm Assembly Replacement services completed
627+
services done by our mechanics
TOTAL NUMBER OF EXPERT BMW MECHANICS
1100+
experts on our platform

Recent articles & questions

A Buyer’s Guide to the 2012 Scion iQ
The The 2012 Scion iQ delivers the type of driving experience you would expect from a microcar. The higher fuel economy coupled with a tight turning radius provides an excellent vehicle for those who do a lot of city driving...
Veteran and Military Driver Laws and Benefits in Tennessee
The The state of Tennessee offers several important benefits for both current military service personnel and veterans. These range from the ability to make your driver’s license “expiration proof” for current service members to specialty honor plates for veterans and...
P2126 OBD-II Trouble Code: Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch E Circuit Range/Performance
Diagnostic Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC): P2126 P2126 code definition Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch E Circuit Range/Performance Related Trouble Codes: P2120: Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch D Circuit P2121: Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch D Circuit Range/Performance P2122: Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch D Circuit Low Input P2123:...

Car producing loud hum when accelerating, engine stalls before starting up

I believe the humming sound you are hearing could be related to a faulty wheel bearing (https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/wheel-bearings-replacement). When wheel bearings dry out they will begin to make humming or growling noises when the vehicle is accelerating. I would recommend having...

Why does my brake light fuse keep blowing?

The brake light switch is powered by the fuse and then powers the rear brake lights and third brake light also. The power also goes into the body control module to signal to unlock the shifter interlock. I would first...

Pulling codes...po206 and po306, cylinder 6 misfire. Changed fuel injectors, fuel injection connectors, spark plugs, ignition coil

Hi Brett. Thanks for contacting us today. Typically, when you've replaced the fuel injectors, plugs and wires, and still getting a single cylinder misfire, it's going to be related somehow to the ECU. Either a trouble code is stuck or...

How can we help?

Our service team is available 7 days a week, Monday - Friday from 6 AM to 5 PM PST, Saturday - Sunday 7 AM - 4 PM PST.

1 (855) 347-2779 · hi@yourmechanic.com