BRAKE PADS AND ROTERS HAVE BEEN REPLACED BUT THE PROBLEM IS STILL THERE .
My car has 28200 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
Hopefully, the rotors were not warped at installation by failure to use a calibrated torque wrench and observe the required tightening sequence. The only way to rule the rotors in or out as the source of the vibration is to use a dial indicator to measure run-out once the rotors are torqued properly to the hub with the lug nuts. Using a dial indicator, run out should not exceed .002 inches, that is run out should not exceed one half the diameter of a human hair. If there is run-out exceeding .002 inches, there is either something wrong with the rotors (not all rotors are created equal by the way; if you want headache free rotors unfortunately you have to buy the OEM rotors or a recognizable name brand such as AC Delco or comparable), they were warped on installation, or the hub or wheel bearings have the runout. If you do find runout to be no greater than .002 inches, the vibration is probably due to loose suspension parts which comes into play as the braking system grabs and slows each wheel. My initial suspicion though would be that the rotors are simply not running true. If you would like a specialist from YourMechanic to evaluate what you have during a brake vibration diagnostic and possibly re-index or shim the rotors to correct this issue, please set up a diagnostic and we will be glad to resolve this for you as well as address any other concerns you might have. If the rotors are judged defective, obviously they should be returned for refund under the warranty.
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