Q: Q: Car won't start

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So today I was driving on the highway no problems what so ever. And the all of a sudden my car turns off I barely made it to the side. Turned it on after a few minutes got another mile down the road and it died again. Now when I go to turn the car in it doesn't turn the engine at all or makes a clicking noise. My battery is fine turns on all my lights and the radio. But my windshield wipers and windows won't work. When I'm trying to turn it on under the steering wheel I hear a loud buzzing noise. I have no idea what it is but could it be the reason my engine won't turn?

My car has 270000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.

Check to see if the fuse(s) in the windshield wiper and power window circuits are intact. If those fuse(s) have blown, there is probably some sort of short circuit. Even though the battery might run the lights, that doesn’t mean the battery is in good enough condition to run a starter motor which draws a large amount of current. Once full charged, the battery should definitely be load tested to be sure there is no issue there. Also, the terminal connections to the battery and the grounds should be cleaned and tightened. The loud buzzing sound could be a relay malfunction due to excessive voltage drop when you actuate the starter circuit. What I would suggest is diagnose the starter circuit and that malfunction may just resolve itself once the no start issue is resolved. To deal with the no start issue, be sure any engine immobilizer system (security system) is not activated, thus preventing the car from starting. Broadly, either the starter motor/solenoid assembly is faulty or the electrical circuit supplying the motor has a fault. That circuit begins at the battery and includes grounds, wiring (some of which is very heavy cabling), fuses, relays, the ignition switch and terminations. Basically, with the key held in the "start" position, the starter is either getting power or it isn’t. With the key in the "start" position, if the starter motor is getting power but it doesn’t work, the starter is condemned and replaced. On the other hand, with the key in the "start" position, if there is no power to the starter, then the starting circuit is traced until the fault in the circuit is found. In addition to a faulty ignition switch, faults can include high resistances, due to corrosion, wire strand breaks, or loose terminals, which can only be diagnosed using a voltage drop test. If you desire that a certified mechanic resolve this, please simply request a no start diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will get the problem diagnosed and repaired for you. Please recontact YourMechanic if you have further concerns or questions as we are always here to help you.

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