Skip the auto shop - Our mechanics make house calls

Q: Car won't start

asked by on

So today I was driving on the highway no problems what so ever. And the all of a sudden my car turns off I barely made it to the side. Turned it on after a few minutes got another mile down the road and it died again. Now when I go to turn the car in it doesn't turn the engine at all or makes a clicking noise. My battery is fine turns on all my lights and the radio. But my windshield wipers and windows won't work. When I'm trying to turn it on under the steering wheel I hear a loud buzzing noise. I have no idea what it is but could it be the reason my engine won't turn?

My car has 270000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.

Check to see if the fuse(s) in the windshield wiper and power window circuits are intact. If those fuse(s) have blown, there is probably some sort of short circuit. Even though the battery might run the lights, that doesn’t mean the battery is in good enough condition to run a starter motor which draws a large amount of current. Once full charged, the battery should definitely be load tested to be sure there is no issue there. Also, the terminal connections to the battery and the grounds should be cleaned and tightened. The loud buzzing sound could be a relay malfunction due to excessive voltage drop when you actuate the starter circuit. What I would suggest is diagnose the starter circuit and that malfunction may just resolve itself once the no start issue is resolved. To deal with the no start issue, be sure any engine immobilizer system (security system) is not activated, thus preventing the car from starting. Broadly, either the starter motor/solenoid assembly is faulty or the electrical circuit supplying the motor has a fault. That circuit begins at the battery and includes grounds, wiring (some of which is very heavy cabling), fuses, relays, the ignition switch and terminations. Basically, with the key held in the "start" position, the starter is either getting power or it isn’t. With the key in the "start" position, if the starter motor is getting power but it doesn’t work, the starter is condemned and replaced. On the other hand, with the key in the "start" position, if there is no power to the starter, then the starting circuit is traced until the fault in the circuit is found. In addition to a faulty ignition switch, faults can include high resistances, due to corrosion, wire strand breaks, or loose terminals, which can only be diagnosed using a voltage drop test. If you desire that a certified mechanic resolve this, please simply request a no start diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will get the problem diagnosed and repaired for you. Please recontact YourMechanic if you have further concerns or questions as we are always here to help you.

Was this answer helpful?

Need advice from certified mechanic? Get help now!

Over 1000 mechanics are ready to answer your question.
The statements expressed above are only for informational purposes and should be independently verified. Please see our terms of service for more details

Get an instant quote for your car

Our certified mechanics come to you ・Backed by 12-month, 12,000-mile guarantee・Fair and transparent pricing

Get a quote

What others are asking

Q: My car got hot and it stop starting but i let it sit in the location it stop working at thrn came back crank it up and it worked

Hello, thanks for writing in. These types of issues can be frustrating and hard to diagnose. Most of the time though this will be caused by a fuel system problem. It can either be a failing inertia switch, a failing...

Q: extremely rough starting

Hello. Thanks for writing in. Start by putting the hose clamps back on. When it comes to this kind of situation, it really is a process of elimination. If reinstalling the hose clamps has no effect, and don't be surprised...

Q: continual dead battery horrible sound when pushing in clutch while starting the vehicle and shifting gears

Hello there. The issue with your clutch pedal is mechanical, typically due to faulty clutch cable or adjustment. However, it's likely that you've got additional electrical problems on your Ford, so it's best to have a professional mechanic complete a...

Related articles

P0240 OBD-II Trouble Code: Turbocharger Boost Sensor B Circuit Range/Performance
P0240 code definition Turbocharger Boost Sensor B Circuit Range/Performance What the P0240 code means P0240 is an OBD-II generic code triggered when the Engine Control Module (ECM) detects the intake boost...
Rules of the Road For Iowa Drivers
Driving on the roads requires knowledge of the rules, many of which are based on common sense and courtesy. However, even though you know the rules in...
P2103 OBD-II Trouble Code: Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit High
P2103 means there is a fault with the throttle actuator control motor circuit, likely due to a defective electrical component or part.