Car cut out on way home changed battery for new one still won't start but when trying to start I hear a clicking noose near glove box
My car has 150000 miles.
My car has a manual transmission.
Be sure the battery is fully charged. "New" batteries are not necessarily fully charged at time of sale. Of course, confirm that the engine immobilizer system (security system) is not activated. With the key held in the "start" position, you should test for power to the starter motor. If there is power (and no voltage drop), but no starter operation, then the starter motor/solenoid assembly is faulty. If there is no power, then the electrical circuit supplying the motor has a fault. That circuit begins at the battery and includes grounds, wiring (some of which is very heavy cabling), fuses, relays, the ignition switch and terminations. Basically, with the key held in the "start" position, the starter is either getting power or it isn’t. With the key in the "start" position, if the starter motor is getting power but it doesn’t work, the starter is condemned and replaced. On the other hand, with the key in the "start" position, if there is no power to the starter, then the circuit is traced until the fault in the circuit is found. In addition to a faulty ignition switch, faults can include high resistances, due to corrosion, wire strand breaks, or loose terminals, which can only be diagnosed using a voltage drop test. If you desire that a certified mechanic resolve this, please simply request a no start diagnostic and the responding certified mechanic will get the problem diagnosed and repaired for you. Please let us know if you have further concerns or questions as we are always here to help you.
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