Q: Car is not starting up or staying running when jumped.

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I got gas the other day and parked in my driveway, when I went to drive it after a few hours the dash lights were dimming and the fuel level decreased until it was empty and the car died however there was no smell of a gasoline leak. I got it towed to my house and a couple days later tried to jump the car, it started with a jump however peetered out after I removed the positive charge. I just had my alternator replaced with a refurbished one so think that may be the issue, however my battery is very old as well. My mechanic tried starting it yesterday and said it wouldn't start at all and that he thinks it's the starter but I'm not convinced and want to be sure before I proceed with buying parts etc.

My car has 212000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.

The very first thing to do is ensure that you have a usable battery. The battery should be fully charged and then load tested. If the battery passes a load test be sure it is NOT a marginal pass in which case you should definitely install a new battery to reduce diagnostic headaches. Batteries are a VERY important component in a car’s electrical system. Once you have a fully functioning, fully charged battery, if the starter motor does turn the engine over rapidly, at sufficient RPM, but the engine does not catch and run, that means that there is an ignition, fuel or air induction fault in the engine that will have to be repaired. To diagnose and identify that fault, the service to request is a no start diagnostic. On the other hand, if the starter is functioning poorly or not at all, that signifies an electrical problem in the starter circuit or a problem with the starter motor. Broadly, either the starter motor/solenoid assembly is faulty or the electrical circuit supplying the motor has a fault. That circuit begins at the battery and includes grounds, wiring (some of which is very heavy cabling), fuses, relays, the ignition switch and terminations. If the starter motor is getting power but it doesn’t work, the starter is condemned and replaced. Alternatively, if there is no power to the starter or there is a big voltage drop to the starter, then the circuit is traced until the fault in the circuit is found. Notably, faults can include high resistances, due to corrosion, wire strand breaks, or loose terminals, which can only be diagnosed using a voltage drop test. Regardless of what the underlying cause of the no start condition is, if you desire that a certified mechanic resolve this promptly, please simply request a no start diagnostic and the responding mechanic will get it diagnosed and repaired for you. Please let us know if you have further concerns or questions as we are always here to help you.

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