Car has had this problem for many months now and I can't find the issue and I have taken it too about 6 mechanics now. The car tends to idke a little poorly when the engine is cold and in park. At times when cold after putting it into drive the car will not shift into gear and engine is really loud until accelarating more for it to shift. Also you have to drive really slow when taking off because the car will not shift into next gear and will just start jerking if not. Another issue is it will only go up to 75 mph, if I keep accelarating the car will lose gear and will not drive until letting it cruise back down 60 mph, if I hit the gas when wanting to accelerate the car will not overdrive and just keep jerking until letting go of the gas. I would like to know why this is happening?
My car has 180500 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
You appear to have a problem with both the engine and the transmission. Diagnostic Trouble Codes, if they have set, should be downloaded from the OBD-II terminal under the steering column. The rough idling is probably resolvable to some extent depending on what a compression test reveals. If you have considerable imbalance in compression between the cylinders (your car engine has close to 200,000 miles, so likely has wear) that itself contributes to a rough running condition. Once compression is verified, basically, an ignition scope has to be applied to see what is going on with the spark ignition from cylinder to cylinder. That will help determine if there is a fuel and/or ignition system problem and in which (or all) cylinders. Rough running can also be caused by EGR leaks, vacuum leaks, problems in air induction system, restricted exhaust, engine timing faults, and so forth. With regard to the transmission, check the fluid level and condition. If the fluid is MARKEDLY dirty, you might try changing fluid and filter to see if shifting improves. If fluid is low, that can cause shift failures. If fluid level and condition are good, then there is likely an issue with the valve body, shift solenoids, and/or transmission controls such as speed and pressure sensors. There could also be leaks in the hydraulic system(internal) due to failed pistons, seals, or o-rings. All of that can be tested with externally mounted pressure gauges. Basically you will need a rough running diagnostic as well as a transmission is not shifting diagnostic. At the conclusion of the diagnostic effort, the Mechanic will set out for you the repair strategies that will get your car functioning as well as possible again.
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