I recently had both of my front bearings replaced. I purchased 2 DuraLast brand and had a shop install. Once completed we noticed a grinding noise coming from the front driver side wheel, sounded almost like when your brakes grind (more of a metal on metal sound) not a bad bearing sound. Couldn’t find any issues with the install, so the shop replaced the driver side bearing again, this time with a Master Pro brand. Driver wheel is fine, now the passenger side is having the same issue/sound. It’s triggered my ABS & VSA lights. Shop tried to clear, immediately the lights come back on. Going back Tuesday for pass. side bearing to be replaced (again!). New issue has started only since those lights have been on, my push start won’t turn the vehicle off correctly. Have to push 3-4 times before it responds, then the car goes into accessory mode, push it again 2-3 times before the car turns off as it should. I have had no error codes prior to this.
My car has 103000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
The large axle nut that retains the CV axle to the wheel hub (the hub is supported on the bearing) is not infrequently over tightened by "amateur", or not too well trained, mechanics. A consequence of this over tightening is almost immediate failure of the bearing as brinelling of the ball bearings into the bearing races occurs. The noise then occurs as the bearing fails. A calibrated torque wrench has to be used to apply the axle nut and the factory specification has to be used which sometimes is even modified in later technical service service bulletins that the mechanic might not look for. The ignition switch issue is probably unrelated to the work on the bearing. If you desire, that fault can be diagnosed, and repaired, by a certified mechanic if you request an electrical circuit/component diagnostic. If you have further questions or concerns, do not hesitate to re-contact YourMechanic as we are always here to help you.
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