Q: Battery has power but when I try to start didn't make any noise

There are a few simple things you can do before you get into a full blown diagnosis.

Number one: Load test the battery. It should carry half the CCA cold cranking amps for 15 seconds without the voltage dropping below 9.8 volts. If the battery is serviceable, use a battery hydrometer to check each cell. They should all read the same and be clear without any black specs or other particulates in them.

Number two: if you can reach the starter, tap on it with a hammer while someone tries to start the car. Don’t hit the starter to hard, it can break the delicate magnets inside. If the starter takes off, you need a starter.

Number three: If that doesn’t work, use a test light to see if the starter is getting power at the exciter wire. If it does, and the battery tests good, you likely need a starter.

Number four: If all that failed to result in a diagnosis, this step is a bit more complicated. There are two modules involved with this portion of the diagnosis. If you don’t feel knowledgeable using a scanner, I recommend booking an appointment with one of our mechanics who can assist you with the diagnoses of why your car will not turn over.

The BCM and ECM work together to send a signal to the starter. The ECM sends the final signal to the starter after the ignition key sends a signal to the BCM. There is some CAN (Computer Area Network) communication occurring to engage the starter.

Good luck. Hopefully one of the easy test will result in a diagnosis.